Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
From the respectable appearance of this town, we
conceived ourselves in the high road to La Palud, and likely to be soon
indemnified by dinner and rest, for the joltings of the day; but our
driver, instead of taking the proper direction, lost himself in a series
of inextricable cross roads, which terminated in a quagmire. In this
slough of despond the unfortunate patache, from which we had descended,
might have stuck for ever, but for the assistance of two shepherds, as
wild in their attire, and as civil, as Don Quixote's friendly goatherds.
By dint of their exertions and those of the floundering and groaning
horse, the vehicle, which was too deeply imbedded in the muddy ruts to
dread an overturn, was dragged out by main force; the driver sometimes
wringing his hands in King Cambysses' vein, and sometimes strenuously
applying his shoulder to the wheel. A franc or two dismissed our
bare-legged friends grinning to their very earrings, and we pursued our
road without further interruption, quite satisfied with this specimen of
the loamy fatness of the soil. From the experience of this day, I
certainly should recommend no one to make the detour to Grignan in a
wheeled carriage of any sort. An active person might accomplish on foot,
before breakfast, the whole distance from Montelimart to Grignan, and
might reach St. Paul de Trois Chateaux, or perhaps La Palud, by night;
but even lady travellers would find less fatigue in hiring
saddle-horses and mules from Montelimart, than in being bumped at the
rate of two miles and a half per hour, over roads which frequently seem
a jumble of unhewn paving-stones. We afterwards understood that there
was a direct road from Grignan to Orange, which would have saved us some
distance, and could not have been worse than that which we travelled
this evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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