Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
The Pont du Gard, which we were not long in visiting, is seen to the
greatest advantage on the side on which we approached it from the inn.
The deep mountain glen, inhabited only by goats, whose entrance it
crosses from cliff to cliff, forms a striking back-ground, and serves as
a measure to the height of the colossal arches which appear to grow
naturally, as it were, out of the gray rocks on which they rest.[38]
There is certainly something more poetical in the stern and simple style
of architecture of which this noble aqueduct is a specimen, than in the
more florid and graceful school of art. The latter speaks more to the
eye, but the former to the mind, possessing a superiority analogous to
that which the great style of painting (as it is termed) boasts over the
florid and ornamental Venetian school. Our own Stonehenge is too much,
perhaps, in the rude extreme of this branch of architecture to be quoted
as a favourable instance of it; but few persons can come suddenly in
sight of Stonehenge on a misty day without being struck by its peculiar
effect; and the Pont du Gard, placed in as lonely a situation, exhibits
materials almost as gigantic in detail, and knit into a towering mass
which seems to require no less force than an earthquake, or a battery of
cannon, to change the position of a single stone. A large and solid
bridge which has been built against it by the states of Languedoc,
appears by comparison to shrink into insignificance, and shelter itself
behind the old Roman arches, the lower tier of which, eleven in number,
overtop it in height by about three-fifths. The span of the largest arch
is about 78 feet; of the other ten, 66 each: and they are surmounted by
a row of thirty-five smaller arches. With the exception of two or three
of these last, the whole fabric is complete, and, if unmolested, appears
likely to witness more changes of language and dynasty than it has
already done. I do not know that the mind is ever more impressed with
the idea of Roman power and greatness, than by contemplating such
structures as these, erected for subordinate purposes at a distance from
the main seat of empire. It is like discovering a broken hand or foot of
the Colossus of Rhodes, and estimating in imagination the height and
bulk of the whole statue from the size of its enormous extremities.
[Footnote 38: Vide Cooke's Views.]
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