Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
From the Pont du Gard the road to Nismes has little to recommend it
excepting the high state of cultivation of the country, and this is not
of a nature to gratify an eye accustomed to English verdure.
Olive-groves, it is true, have been naturalized in poetry as conveying
an image of beauty and freshness; but in reality nothing can be more
opposed to the oaks and elms of an English hedge-row, than the pale
shining gray of this stunted tree, which has more of a metallic than a
vegetable appearance. Nor does a perpetual succession of corn-fields,
however rich in reality, present the same appearance of luxuriant
vegetation as an English pasture. There is, besides, nothing in the
nearer approach to Nismes, which reminds one of the environs of an
opulent commercial town, and its precincts would cut a poor figure when
compared with those of Leeds or Bristol. The transition is immediate,
from a dull range of corn-fields, without a gentleman's house, to a long
dirty suburb. On emerging, however, from the latter into the better and
more central part of the town, one is surprised to find wide and elegant
streets well watered and planted, and public buildings, whose beauty and
good taste show that the citizens of Nismes have made a good use of the
fine architectural models afforded by the ancient Nemausis. The Palais
de Justice deserves to be particularly remarked for its classical
elegance, and contrasts well with the black solid arches of the Arenes,
near which it is placed.
"_Monsieour!_ les antiquites!--_Heou! Monsieour!_ les
Arenes!--Commissionaire pour voir la Maison Carree!--_Heou--ou!
Monsieour!_ decrotteur, s'il vous plait!--Le Temple de Diane,
_Monsieour!_" are the cries with which every third or fourth ragamuffin
at Nismes salutes you, enforcing his application by a peculiar yell, of
which no combination of letters can give an idea uncouth enough. As it
is hardly possible to walk in the central part of Nismes without seeing
its antiquities before you, it is best to avoid a troublesome live
appendage of this sort, by appearing totally deaf. The Arenes are nearly
in front of the Hotel du Louvre, and the Maison Carree is within two or
three minutes' walk of it: the Temple of Diana and the Baths are
situated in the most conspicuous spot in the public gardens, whither a
perpetual concourse of people may be seen thronging; and the Pharos
overlooks them from the summit of a small precipitous hill, which may be
ascended in five minutes by a good walker. Every thing therefore lies
within the compass of an evening's stroll.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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