Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819Hughes, John
History
Itinerary of Provence and the Rhone: Made During the Year 1819
Hughes, John
Provence (France) -- Description and travel; Rhône River (Switzerland and France)
The Maison Carree is a beautiful bijou, better known than any other of
the curiosities of Nismes. I believe the opinion of Mons. Seguier
(formed from a laborious examination of the nail-holes belonging to its
last bronze inscription) is generally adopted; viz. that it was a temple
dedicated to Caius and Lucius Caesar, grandsons of Augustus. A perfect
copy of it, built from actual measurement, may be found in the Temple of
Victory and Concord, in the Duke of Buckingham's gardens at Stowe. So
admirable is the preservation of the original in every part, owing to
the dry and pure air of Languedoc, as almost to operate as a
disadvantage. Its freshness and compactness suggest rather too much the
idea of a modern pavilion of twenty or thirty years standing, instead of
that of a temple; and if I may venture to say so, the same want of the
aerugo of age, which renders it more valuable as an architectural relic,
produces an incongruous and unpoetical effect on the imagination. Age,
in fact, has its own characteristic branch of beauty. An old man with
curly hair and a fresh smooth complexion, like Godwin's Struldbrugg, St.
Leon, would be an unpleasant and unnatural object. There is a masculine
and imposing medium between youthful vigour and decay, in which the
leading features of the former man may be distinctly traced; as in
Wordsworth's beautiful description of the old knight of Rylstone, and
Sir Walter Scott's fine portraiture of Archibald Bell-the-Cat: and I
think the analogy holds good in classical remains. Somewhat should be
decayed for effect's sake; and those parts only left which are
strikingly beautiful, or of a leading and important nature. The Arena,
which we next visited, is perhaps more consonant to this standard than
the Maison Carree. Its structure is similar to that of the Colosseum at
Rome, of which, however, it falls infinitely short in size and grandeur,
while at the same time it so far exceeds it in perfectness, as to give a
complete idea to an inexperienced eye of its original figure and
arrangement, and of the admirable system of accommodation which such
places possessed. It has just enough of the graceful decay of age to
render it picturesque, and enough of freshness to answer the questions
of the antiquarian: and neither too much nor too little is left to the
imagination. Mr. Albanis Beaumont, in his work on the Maritime Alps,
calculates the number of persons which this building must have held at
16,599, and the spectators in the Colosseum at 34,000. He also states
the widest interior circumference of the Arena, as 1110-1/2 feet. The
plate engraved in his work, dated 1795, represents two square towers
over the principal entrance, erected perhaps by Charles Martel, when he
converted the building into a citadel; they have however been since
destroyed, and the work of clearing away the houses which defaced both
its inside and outside, commenced originally by Louis XVI., has been
completed.
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