Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late TudorFitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
History
Jacobean Embroidery: Its Forms and Fillings, Including Late Tudor
Fitzwilliam, Ada Wentworth
Embroidery
The design is a bold one of big leaves worked on the usual thick white
hand-made linen. Undoubtedly the wools used were green at the time of
working, but have now changed to beautiful shades of blue to indigo.
Each leaf throughout the work has a thick contour in rope stitch of the
four shades of the wool used, and the stem is most effective, done in
squares of Cretan stitch in the same four shades.
[Illustration: PLATE 15]
Op. VII
PLATE 16
This bold leaf is mainly carried out in block shading, but the colours
are unusual. Indigo for the outside edge, soft brown the central block,
and light green for the inner; in the second leaf the green is employed
only for the line of veining; the two leaves or sections on the
right-hand side are treated as follows--The upper one has outlines of
brown, between which blocks of "buttonhole" in indigo are worked, the
intervening spaces being simply decorated by a loop stitch in green
wool. The sprays are in satin stitch, which is one of the best for small
sprays to be worked solid.
[Illustration: PLATE 16]
PLATE 17
A very handsome leaf, in the working of which many stitches are
employed.
The curved scroll at the top is carried out in block shading in blue to
pale green; the curved section on the right is marked out in squares
filled alternately with satin stitches, with a simple French knot in
each square, and by a square trellis secured in the centre by a cross
stitch; the scroll below this is outlined in crewel stitch, and filled
with laid work or strands of wool thrown across from edge to edge and
couched by back stitches at the points of intersection.
The three leaves at the root of the stem are carried out in block
shading in shades of grey green, the leaf above is outlined in crewel
stitch and filled with fancy devices worked in buttonhole stitch with
darning background; the centre motive is a solid mass of French knots,
well raised and blue in colour. I have seen this same motive carried out
in three shades, the lightest group at the point, the darkest at the
back.
[Illustration: PLATE 17]
PLATE 18
More fillings taken from a piece of work executed in the late 17th
century.
I Is one of the diverse methods of treating the large tree stems in a
design. Within the fan-like outlines traced down on the linen is a solid
filling of satin stitches, varying row by row from pale fawn at the foot
to dark chestnut brown round the top, the direction of the stitches is
shewn in the drawing.
II Here we have a fancy lattice of three strands of laid wool couched
with small French knots at the intersecting points, the outline is in
stem stitch and fanciful back stitches are used as fillings.
III Has first rows of long single threads thrown across, caught down
with stars and groups of satin stitching crossed.
IV A light treatment for stems, the filling, shells in buttonhole
stitches, with second outline in darning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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