James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 3James, Edwin
History
James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 3
James, Edwin
Indians of North America; Rocky Mountains; United States -- Discovery and exploration; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Having passed a level tract of several acres covered with the aspen,
poplar, a few birches, and pines, we arrived at a small stream running
towards the south, nearly parallel to the base of the conic part of the
mountain which forms the summit of the peak. From this spot we could
distinctly see almost the whole of the peak: its lower half thinly clad
with pines, junipers, and other evergreen trees; the upper, a naked
conic pile of yellowish rocks, surmounted here and there with broad
patches of snow. But the summit appeared so distant, and the ascent
so steep, that we began to despair of accomplishing the ascent and
returning on the same day.
About the small stream before mentioned, we saw an undescribed
white-flowered species of caltha, some pediculariæ, the shrubby
cinque-foil (potentilla fruticosa, Ph.) and many alpine plants. At
this point a change is observed in the character of the rock, all that
which constitutes the peak beyond containing no mica. It is a compact,
fine-grained aggregate of quartz, felspar, and hornblende; the latter
in small proportion, and sometimes wholly wanting.
The day was bright, and the air nearly calm. As we ascended rapidly,
we could perceive a manifest {216} change of temperature; and before
we reached the outskirts of the timber, a little wind was felt from
the north-east. On this part of the mountain is frequently seen the
yellow-flowered stone-crop (sedum stenopetalum, Ph.), almost the only
herbaceous plant which occurs in the most closely wooded parts of the
mountain. We found the trees of a smaller size, and more scattered in
proportion to the elevation at which they grew; and arrived at about
twelve o'clock at the limit above which none are found. This is a
defined line, encircling the peak in a part which, when seen from the
plain, appeared near the summit; but when we arrived at it, a greater
part of the whole elevation of the mountain seemed still before us.
Above the timber the ascent is steeper, but less difficult than below;
the surface being so highly inclined, that the large masses, when
loosened, roll down, meeting no obstruction until they arrive at the
commencement of the timber. The red cedar, and the flexile pine,[4]
are the trees which appear at the greatest elevation. These are small,
having thick and extremely rigid trunks; and near the commencement of
the naked part of the mountain, they have neither limbs nor bark on
that side which is exposed to the descending masses of rocks. It may
appear a contradiction to assert, that trees have grown in a situation
so exposed as to be unable [to] produce or retain bark or limbs on
one side; yet of the fact that they are now standing and living in
such a situation there can be no doubt. It is, perhaps, probable the
timber may formerly have extended to a greater elevation on the sides
of this peak than at present, so that those trees which are now on the
outskirts of the forest were formerly protected by their more exposed
neighbours.
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