James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 4James, Edwin
History
James's Account of S. H. Long's Expedition, 1819-1820, part 4
James, Edwin
Indians of North America; Rocky Mountains; United States -- Discovery and exploration; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Having mistaken the route we had been directed to follow, we were
bewildered during a considerable part of the day, wandering about
through a fertile country without settlements, and so covered with
dense forests as to render the travelling exceedingly harassing.
Towards evening we arrived at a settlement of Cherokees, where we
engaged a guide to conduct us to the trace leading to the springs. For
this service we paid him two dollars. At night we encamped in an open
forest of oak, where we found a sufficient supply of grass for our
horses. The hills south of the Arkansa range from N.E. to S.W. , their
sides are sometimes nearly naked, but more commonly covered with small
and scattered trees. Several kinds of oak, and the chinquapin (castanea
pumila, Ph.) attaining the dimensions of a tree, are met with in the
sandstone tracts. We distinguished here, in the uplands, two separate
varieties of soil. That just mentioned, based upon a compact hard
sandstone, and bearing forests of oak, and another resting upon a white
petrosiliceous rock, with fragments of which it is much intermixed.
This latter is often covered {149} with pine forests. The most common
species, yellow pine (P. resinosa,) attains unusual magnitude. The
rigida, and some other species occur, but are not frequent. We also
observed several species of vaucinum, the mitchella, the kalmia
latifolia, hamamelis virginica? cunila mariana, and many other plants
common to this region and the Alleghany mountains.
There are no settlements between those of the Cherokees about Derdonai
on the Arkansa and the hot springs. The blind path which we followed
traverses a rugged and mountainous region, having considerable
resemblance, except in the want of parallelism in the ranges, to the
sandstone portions of the Alleghanies. As the weather was rainy we felt
the inconvenience of travelling in the wilderness and encamping without
tents. On the 28th we arrived at the hot springs. The country near
these, on the north and north-west, is high and rocky. The sandstone,
which extends from the Arkansa to within a few miles to the springs,
becomes, as you go south, something inclined, and apparently of a
more ancient deposition, until it is succeeded by a highly inclined
primitive argillite. Both these rocks are traversed by large veins of
white quartz. They are inclined towards the south, and the argillite at
a great angle. In some localities it is but indistinctly slaty in its
structure, and its laminæ are nearly perpendicular.
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