sufficiently to make it clear that, like the treasures from Saragossa,
they owe their presence here to the devotion of perhaps more than one
wealthy person to a highly revered shrine. In spite of the fact that the
majority are considerably damaged, they are yet eloquent proofs of the
magnificent style of living at the period of their production, and
valuable examples of the ornaments of the Middle Ages of which no other
collection possesses so large and choice a variety.
[95] _Revue de l'art chrétien_, 1887, p. 276; and Humann (G.),
_Die Kunstwerke der Münster-Kirche zu Essen_, Pl. 62.
[96] Compare this jewel with "_un damoisell seant en un
solaill_" in Henry IV's inventory.
In date one is disposed to place these brooches (or nouches, as they
would be termed in old English inventories) in the first half of the
fifteenth century--at least as far as the figured pieces are concerned,
for jewellery in pictures of the second half of the century is mostly
formed of pearls and precious stones alone. Jewelled brooches of this
kind ornamented with figures in relief are particularly well represented
in the works of the older German painters and above all those of Stephan
Lochner (d. 1451), in whose masterpiece in Cologne Cathedral, known as
the "Dombild," the Virgin is seen wearing on her breast a brooch
ornamented with clusters of pearls and the figure of a seated maiden,
with a unicorn resting one foot on her lap.[97] In another celebrated
picture by Master Stephan--the "Virgin of the Rose-Arbour," in the
Cologne Museum--the same subject is represented on the _mandorla_, or
almond-shaped, brooch which closes the Virgin's robe; while in a third
picture by him in the Episcopal Museum of the same city--a picture
which, like the rest, bears traces of Flemish influence--the Virgin's
brooch or morse is ornamented with a female figure seated, full face,
after the manner of the British Museum and Essen brooches.[98]
[97] Compare Henry IV's "_i. damoisell et i. unicorn_."
[98] The same motive is figured on a morse shown on the left wing of
a picture in the Cologne Museum known as the "Sippenaltar" (by the
_Meister der heiligen Sippe_), dating from the end of the fifteenth
century. The jewel is worn by S. Nicasius. It is trefoil in shape, and
decorated with the figure of an angel, full face, holding a large stone
in front.
[Illustration: Brooch of the Virgin in Lochner's "Dombild"
(Cologne Cathedral).]
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