Such is the extraordinary quality and extreme rarity of jewels of this
type that attention must be drawn to yet two more examples: one in the
Imperial Collections at Vienna, and the other in the Carrand Collection
in the Bargello at Florence. The former is a jewel of quite remarkable
character. Within the usual circle of gold wire is a pair of lovers
standing side by side each holding the end of a wreath. The figures,
dressed in Burgundian costume of the fifteenth century and enamelled
with various colours, breathe the spirit of the mediæval _amourette_ as
represented upon ivory mirror-cases and jewel-caskets and in miniatures
of the twelfth to the sixteenth century. Between them is a triangular
diamond set like the example in the British Museum, and below it a pale
cabochon ruby. Around are five pearls (Pl. XX, 8).[99] The jewel at
Florence (2 inches in diameter) has a border of green enamelled leaves
set with pearls, and in the centre a finely modelled figure of a
dromedary in white enamel. This brooch, which is in splendid condition,
was perhaps intended to be worn, as were some other of these pieces, as
an _enseigne_ on the hat or cap (Pl. XVII, 12).
[99] This jewel once formed part of the treasure of the House of
Burgundy, and came into the Imperial Collections through the marriage
of Mary of Burgundy with the Emperor Maximilian I.
Whatever may have been their nationality, a glance at each, from those
in the British Museum to the one last described, is sufficient to
determine the identity of their source of inspiration. All bear the
stamp of the Flemish-Burgundian art, which throughout the fifteenth
century dominated the creations of the goldsmiths, as well as the
sculptors, miniaturists, and tapestry workers, of the entire west of
Europe.
Every one of these brooches is worthy of the most careful examination,
particularly by the craftsman of the present day, for unlike the
ornaments of more ancient times, they possess qualities which render
them peculiarly appropriate to the circumstances of our later
civilisation. In the refinement and simplicity of their arrangement
and design these mediæval examples of the jeweller's art transcend
many of the greatly admired and more famous jewels of the Renaissance.
CHAPTER XVIII
MEDIÆVAL RINGS AND BRACELETS
Of all classes of mediæval jewellery finger rings have been preserved in
the greatest number. Among the various causes that have contributed to
this result must be reckoned their very general use in former times,
their comparatively small value, which often saved them from the
melting-pot and the fact that they were almost the only articles of
value usually buried with the dead.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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