Vasari tells of the very close connection and almost constant
intercourse that existed between the goldsmiths and the painters.
Indeed, nearly every artist, before applying himself to painting,
architecture, or sculpture, began with the study of the goldsmith's
craft, and "passed the years of his apprenticeship in the technical
details of an industry that then supplied the strictest method of
design."[117]
[117] Symonds (J. A.), _Renaissance in Italy--The Fine Arts_, p. 91.
The names of several artists of the Renaissance have been handed down
who are specially recorded as having worked at jewellery. One of the
earliest of those who began their career in the goldsmith's workshops
is Ghiberti (b. 1378), who throughout life remained faithful to that
species of work. His jewellery is specially extolled by Vasari.
Following upon Ghiberti were two great jewellers, Tommaso (commonly
called Maso) di Finiguerra and Antonio Pollaiuolo; the former famous for
his nielli, the latter for his enamel-work upon relief. Pollaiuolo's
love for jewel-forms in his paintings (executed together with his
brother Piero) is seen not only in the Annunciation at Berlin, but in
the group of SS. Eustace, James, and Vincent in the Uffizi, and the
portrait of Simonetta Vespucci at Chantilly. Born in 1435, a few years
after Pollaiuolo, Andrea del Verrocchio resembled in the peculiar
versatility of his genius, others of these typical artists of the Middle
or High Renaissance--the Epoch of the Goldsmith it has been termed.
A jeweller whose influence in his own day was greater, and whose fame
almost equalled that of Cellini, was Ambrogio Foppa, called Caradosso,
who was born about 1446 at Milan. He worked first in the service of
Ludovico Sforza, and afterwards at Rome, where he died as late as
the year 1530. He seems to have been skilled in every branch of the
goldsmith's art, and especially excelled in making little medallions of
gold, enriched with figures in high relief and covered with enamels,
which were worn as enseignes in the hat or hair. His work in this
direction is highly extolled by Cellini, and his skill in enamelling
specially mentioned by Vasari.
Among the artists of the end of the fifteenth century who, after
being goldsmiths and jewellers, became celebrated as painters must be
mentioned Botticelli (1444-1510), Domenico del Ghirlandaio (1449-1494),
and Francia (1450-1517). Ghirlandaio is commonly referred to as a maker
of the jewelled coronals (_ghirlande_), popular with the unmarried and
newly wedded ladies of Florence. It is probable that he did produce this
class of work in early life; but his name seems to have been borne by
several members of his family, for in the fourteenth and fifteenth
centuries a goldsmith was often familiarly termed "Ghirlandaio," as one
of his chief occupations was the manufacture of the rich head-ornaments
then so much in vogue.
[Illustration: Pendant worn by one of The Three Graces in
Botticelli's "Primavera."]
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