Though Ghirlandaio does not fill his pictures with dainty details like
the intricate settings which Botticelli devised for the neck-pendants of
the Graces in his "Primavera," yet he invariably pays careful regard to
the representation of jewelled accessories. Such may be seen in the
well-known portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni (1488), belonging to Mr.
Pierpont Morgan (formerly in the Kann Collection). She has two jewels:
one, worn on her breast, is formed of a ruby in claw setting with a
small beryl above, and hung with three pendent pearls; the other,
specially introduced into the picture and lying beside her in a recess,
is composed of a cluster of stones--a ruby surrounded by two pearls and
three beryls--beautifully set, and surmounted by a winged dragon with
a sapphire over its head. Resting upon a table in the foreground of
another picture--a curious panel in the possession of Mr. George
Salting--representing Costanza de' Medici, are several pins, three rings
on a roll of parchment, and a pendant hung with three pearls and set
with a large and a small sapphire. In the Pitti Gallery is a portrait,
not by Domenico, but by his son Ridolfo Ghirlandaio, which may be here
alluded to owing to the special interest of its subject. The portrait is
that of a jeweller holding in his hand and gazing intently at what is
presumably one of his own creations--a richly enamelled jewel fashioned
in the form of a "pelican in its piety."
[Illustration: Jewel, in Ghirlandaio's portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni.]
Concerning the jewellery of the great goldsmith of Bologna, Francesco
Raibolini, called Francia, a considerable amount of information has been
preserved. Born in 1450, he passed the best part of his life as a
goldsmith, and not till he was upwards of forty did he abandon the
goldsmith's art for that of the painter.[118] One of Francia's finest
paintings is the "Felicini" altar-piece in the Bologna Gallery, executed
in 1484 by commission of Messer Bartolomeo Felicini for the church of S.
Maria della Misericordia in that city. Among the many splendid gifts
this famous church had received was a jewel which the records say was
set by Francia himself. Its beauty was held in such esteem, that by
desire of the chapter the artist introduced it into his picture,
where it can be seen hanging over the head of the Madonna. Its centre
is occupied by a fine amethyst, and is bordered by deep blood-crimson
enamel, with pearls at the angles. So carefully is every detail of this
jewel painted, that a modern goldsmith has found no difficulty in
copying it with absolute exactness[119] (Pl. XXV, 1).
[118] Williamson (G. C.), _Francia_, pp. 2, 3, 21, 38.
[119] For a photograph of this jewel, and for the information
respecting it and the other works of this artist, I am indebted
to the kindness of Dr. Williamson.
[Illustration: _PLATE XXV_ FIFTEENTH-CENTURY PENDANTS, ETC.
(ITALIAN AND FLEMISH)]
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