The use of earrings, curiously enough, was not confined to women, and we
find men, even the sedatest, wearing them. "Women," says Philip Stubbes
in his _Anatomie of Abuses_ (1583), "are so far bewitched as they are
not ashamed to make holes in their ears, whereat they hang rings, and
other jewels of gold and precious stones; but this," he adds, "is not so
much frequented among women as among men." This custom appears to have
originated in Spain, where the use of earrings was pretty general among
both sexes, and as the result of Spanish influence was introduced into
France at the luxurious Court of Henry III. The fashion subsequently
came to England, where it was generally affected by the courtiers of
Elizabeth and James I, as is clear from contemporary male portraits,
where an earring is worn, as a rule, in one ear only. Robert Carr, Earl
of Somerset, is seen in the National Portrait Gallery wearing a ruby
earring; while the Duke of Buckingham was particularly noticeable for
the splendour of his diamond earrings. Commenting on the degeneracy of
his contemporaries, Holinshed in his _Chronicle_ (1577) observes: "Some
lusty courtiers also and gentlemen of courage do wear either rings of
gold, stones, or pearl in their ears, whereby they imagine the
workmanship of God to be not a little amended." In a splendour-loving
time one might expect to find such ornaments among courtiers, but that
earrings were worn also by men of action and men of parts is evident
from the portraits of Shakespeare, Sir Walter Raleigh, and the Earl of
Southampton.
The use of earrings among men continued to the time of Charles I, and in
Lenton's _Young Gallant's Whirligigg_ (1629) a fop is described with--
Haire's curl'd, eares pearl'd, with Bristows[154] brave and bright,
Bought for true Diamonds in his false sight.
[154] Crystal quartz found in the Clifton limestone, and known
as Bristol diamonds.
King Charles himself followed the general fashion and hung a large pearl
in his left ear. This he wore even on the scaffold, where he took it
from his ear and gave it to a faithful follower. It is still preserved,
and is now owned by the Duke of Portland. It is pear-shaped, about
five-eighths of an inch long, and mounted with a gold top, and a hook
to pass through the ear.
Earrings, together with similar luxuries, vanished at the time of the
Protectorate; men are not seen wearing them after the Restoration,
though they are still in use among certain classes on account of their
supposed value as preservatives against affections of the eyes.
CHAPTER XXVI
RENAISSANCE NECKLACES, NECK-CHAINS, AND COLLARS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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