Necklaces or neck-chains worn by both sexes are a prominent feature in
Renaissance jewellery. Just as in primitive times the neck was encircled
by a torque, so at this later period it was the custom to carry heavy
chains of pure gold, which were worn in different ways, either round
the throat, or else upon the shoulders and low down over the breast.
Sometimes one long chain was wound several times round the neck so that
the uppermost row closely encircled the throat. Not satisfied with one,
women in particular occasionally wore as many as half a dozen chains of
different design covering the body from neck to waist.
From the fifteenth until the middle of the seventeenth century
neck-chains were a frequent adjunct to male costume, and allusion is
made to them in Barclay's _Ship of Fools_ (printed by Pynson in 1508):--
Some theyr neckes charged with colers, and chaynes
As golden withtthes: theyr fyngers ful of rynges:
Theyr neckes naked: almoste vnto the raynes;
Theyr sleues blasinge lyke to a Cranys wynges.
Men's necklaces, apart from the chains and collars of distinction
belonging to particular orders or guilds, seem to have been mostly of
pure gold, and in the reign of Henry VIII the fashion of wearing them
was carried to a most unreasonable excess. Hall speaks of the "nombre of
chaynes of golde and bauderickes both massy and grate" worn at the Field
of the Cloth of Gold, and of the "marveilous treasor of golde" thus
displayed. References to the extraordinary dimensions of these chains
show that they must have been extremely inconvenient to wear. Henry
VIII's Book of Payments records the payment in 1511 of £199 to the
goldsmith Roy for a chain of gold weighing no less than 98 ounces. This
is actually surpassed in Elizabeth's time, when Her Majesty received as
a New Year's gift in 1588 "one cheine of golde, weing one hundred
threescore and one ounce." Queen Mary had a heavy chain of gold made by
her jeweller, Robert Raynes, out of the angels received as New Year's
gifts;[155] and the curious custom of converting bullion into chains is
further exemplified in the case of Sir Thomas Gresham, the bulk of whose
wealth on his death in 1579 was found to consist of gold chains.
[155] Nichols (J.), _Illustrations of the manners and expenses
of ancient times in England_, Pt. III, p. 26.
Pictures without number exhibit these ponderous neck-ornaments, while
contemporary wills teem with references to them. That they were very
much worn in Shakespeare's time would be apparent had we no other
authority than his frequent allusion to them, as for instance in the
_Comedy of Errors_, where there is a great ado about a chain. Indeed, no
gentleman was considered properly equipped unless he had his chain of
gold upon his shoulders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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