The jewelled neck-chain worn by women, and composed of strings of
precious stones, "ropes of pearls", or of jewelled and enamelled
sections, is often represented in pictures as being gathered in a
festoon at the breast and hanging in loops at each side as low as the
waist. A chain of gold of this character--one amongst many similar
presented by the Earl of Leicester to Queen Elizabeth--was "made like a
pair of beads, containing eight long pieces, garnished with small
diamonds, and four score and one smaller pieces, fully garnished with
like diamonds."
Besides the chains or collars worn round the neck and upon the
shoulders, there were the actual necklets worn round the throat, and
often only distinguishable from the collar proper by their length (Pl.
XXXI, 1). These necklaces, or carcanets, which almost invariably had as
a central ornament an elaborate pendent jewel, are figured in such
profusion in sixteenth-century portraits, particularly by the painters
of the German school, that it is needless to mention particular
examples. In Henry VIII's time they were worn in great abundance. The
King loaded his wives with sumptuous jewels, and encircled their
throats--on which the axe was eventually to fall--with jewelled and
enamelled necklaces. The "carkyonetts" of Queen Elizabeth, of which she
received an immense number, were equally magnificent. A New Year's gift
in 1587 was a "carkyonett of golde, like halfe moones, garnished with
sparcks of rubyes and diamonds pendant, and one rowe of seede
perles."[158]
[158] Nichols, _Progresses of Queen Elizabeth_, II, p. 498.
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