With regard to their form, it seems that chains which appear as though
made of plaited wire, and were known in mediæval times, remained still
in use. But the majority of chains are composed of rounded links of
various designs. They are usually of great length, so as to encircle the
neck and shoulders several times.
Extraordinarily common though such chains must have been, but few
examples have survived, and the reason for this must be that, composed
of pure metal, they went direct to the melting-pot as soon as they
became unfashionable. Yet owing to peculiar circumstances some still
exist. In the Germanic Museum at Nuremberg are preserved several
examples dating from the first quarter of the seventeenth century. These
formerly belonged to the Holtzendorff family, and were buried during the
Thirty Years' War, at Pinnow in North Germany, where they were unearthed
a few years ago.[156] Two gold chains dating from about the middle of
the same century are preserved in the Ashmolean Museum. They were
presented to Elias Ashmole: the one 29 inches long, formed of thirty-two
open-work quatrefoil links, by Christian V, King of Denmark, and the
other, of circular links, by the Elector of Brandenburg in 1680, on the
publication of the _History of the Order of the Garter_. The custom of
presenting chains of gold was as common then, it is to be observed, as
in the most ancient times. John Williams, jeweller of James I, was paid
sums amounting to upwards of £13,000 for chains of gold given by the
King to divers ambassadors.
[156] Nuremberg: Germanisches Museum. _Mitteilungen_, 1894, p. 73.
These heavy linked or twisted chains were worn principally by men, but
not exclusively, as is clear from numerous early portraits--those, for
instance, by the German painters Bernard Strigel and Lucas Cranach,
whose ladies (as in the portrait by Cranach in the National Gallery)
almost invariably have massive gold chains. Though generally composed of
metal rings, men's chains, especially those worn by men of high rank,
were occasionally composed of cylinders or plaques linked together and
enriched with enamel and precious stones. Such jewelled collars were,
however, chiefly reserved for women. Henry VIII's numerous portraits
generally show him adorned with magnificent collars set with pearls
and precious stones; and it is recorded that on the occasion of his
attending St. Paul's at the proclamation of peace in 1515 he wore a
collar thickly studded with the finest carbuncles, as large as walnuts.
Amongst the numerous collars mentioned in his inventory of 1526 is a
"carkayne of hearts, with a hand at each end, holding a device of a
goodly balasse garnished with five pearls and three diamonds, and a
hanging pearl."[157]
[157] _Letters and Papers_, IV, No. 1907.
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