The publication in London of several series of designs proves that
England was not far behind the Continent in the production of high-class
personal ornaments. Among the most important pattern-books for
jewellery, are those of Simon Gribelin, who was born in Paris in 1662,
and worked chiefly in London, where he died in 1733. His work includes
_A book of seuerall Ornaments inuented and ingraued by S. Gribelin,
1682_, and _A Book of Ornaments usefull to Jewellers_, etc., 1697. These
were republished in 1704. Gribelin's productions were followed by those
of J. B. Herbst, who issued in 1708 _A book of severall ornaments fit
for Juweler, made by J. B. Herbst_, and in 1710 _A Book of Severall
Juwelers work, ... Sold by Mr. Eymaker, Juweler in Earls Court drury
lane London_. The patterns are chiefly for seals, and for breast
ornaments and clasps set with rose-cut stones in rococo settings. About
the same time similar pattern-books were published by J. Smith and
Thomas Bowles. In 1736 appeared _A book of jeweller's work design'd by
Thomas Flach in London_, engraved by J. Fessey. It contains designs for
buckles, seals, watch-keys, a chatelaine with a watch and another with
an étui, pendants and bow-shaped breast ornaments hung with drop pearls.
In 1762 J. Guien published in London a _Livre de jouailleries--A book of
Ornaments for Jewellers_, containing various designs in precious stones
in the manner of Morisson and Grondoni.
An isolated phenomenon in the midst of the universal love for precious
stones that then dominated the productions of the jewellers, there
stands out Johann Melchior Dinglinger, who carried the traditions of the
sixteenth century far into the eighteenth. Born at Biberach, near Ulm,
in 1665, Dinglinger worked first at Augsburg, and, having visited Italy,
was summoned to Dresden in 1702 by Augustus II, Elector of Saxony, where
he lived until his death in 1731. During these thirty years, aided by
his brother Georg Friedrich (d. 1720) and his son Johann Melchior
(1702-1762), he was employed as court jeweller to the Elector, whom he
assisted in planning and arranging the Grüne Gewölbe at Dresden, which
marvellous assemblage of precious objects contains the best examples of
his work. All the processes of the Cinquecento craftsmen, of whose
technique he possessed a fine knowledge, were employed by Dinglinger
with wonderful care and exactitude--though his productions naturally
betray in design the period of their execution. He exercised
considerable influence on his contemporaries, more especially with
regard to the revival of the art of enamelling in the second half of the
century, when jewellery made a notable advance in the time of Louis XVI.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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