A change in style was first experienced on the arrival in power of
Madame de Pompadour, who led the way in that coquettish return to simple
conditions of life which showed itself in the pastorals of the Louis
Quinze epoch. It resulted in a preference for simple gold; this metal,
coloured by alloys such as platinum and silver, and popular under the
name of _à quatre couleurs_, being at most only set off by enamel
painting. This later rococo period, as far as its technique is
concerned, is one which has never been equalled either before or
since.
An event of importance in the history of jewellery, as of art generally,
was the discovery in 1755 of the city of Pompeii, succeeding that in
1713 of Herculaneum, buried for centuries beneath the ashes of Vesuvius.
The journeys of artists to Italy and to Naples, and the interest aroused
thereby in ancient art, a weariness with the mannerism of rococo
ornament, and the whim of fashion, gradually transformed jewellery like
other decorative arts, and resulted in the classicism of the style of
Louis XVI. Antique forms as they then were known showed themselves in a
very charming manner in well-balanced jewels, where different coloured
gold took the form of classical motives in the midst of ribbons,
garlands, and the pastoral subjects dear to the previous epoch. Enamel
returned into fashion, and accomplished its chief triumph with painting
_en plein_ in fine transparent tones over _guilloché_ gold. In
conjunction with the art of gem setting and cutting, and metal chasing,
this species of enamel produced effects which were all the more
surprising, seeing that it was often confined to the smallest of spaces.
Among the first craftsmen who created, or followed the fashion, was the
jeweller Lempereur. Some of his designs were published by his pupil
Pouget the younger in 1762 and 1764, in a treatise entitled _Traité des
pierres précieuses et de la manière de les employer en Parure_, the
plates of which, mostly coloured, and representing models of jewellery
of all kinds set with precious stones, were engraved by Mlle. Raimbau.
Another pupil of Lempereur, August Duflos, published in 1760 a similar
work entitled _Recueil de Dessins de Joaillerie_. Other French designers
of jewellery at this time were: Maria, a jeweller of Paris, who issued
about 1765 an important series of plates, thirty-five in number, of
pendants, brooches, clasps, chatelaines, aigrettes, seals, rings, and
buckles; P. Moreau (1740-1780) and J. B. Fay (1780-1790), both of Paris;
and L. Van den Cruycen (1770) of Brussels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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