Among savages, and races not far removed from barbarism, it may be
observed that the love of ornament is chiefly characteristic of men. As
civilisation advances it is displayed more and more by women alone. Yet
even a century ago, among the most civilised nations of Europe, the
"beaux" and "macaronis" adorned themselves with jewellery of all kinds.
To-day, however, it is confined, and with greater propriety, almost
entirely to women. Desirous always of pleasing, the gentle sex has
ever sought to add to its charms by adorning itself with jewels.
Two methods of dealing with the history of the present subject
present themselves. One method consists in taking individual classes
of jewellery, tracing their complete development, and following the
changes they undergo during the various periods of civilisation. By the
other--the historical method--all types of jewellery in existence at a
particular time are examined side by side within the historical period
to which they belong. The general changes that take place at one epoch
find an echo in every piece of jewellery that belongs to that epoch. The
different classes of jewellery during every period all bear a distinct
relationship of style. For instance, the changes which take place in the
aspect of the necklace at a particular epoch will be found to occur at
the same time in that of the bracelet and girdle. But there may exist
the widest divergence in style and idea between a particular piece of
jewellery and its successor of a subsequent period. For these reasons
an historical and chronological mode of treatment has been adopted,
which will allow more completeness of observation, and fuller and more
scientific investigation of style and craftmanship. Certain difficulties
are nevertheless encountered, because periods and fashions naturally
overlap. This is particularly the case in times when communication was
not easy; since some people would cling to an old form of jewellery,
while others, more travelled or more fashionably minded, would prefer
a new.
In proceeding towards a systematic classification of personal ornaments
it may be advisable, instead of dealing with the separate ornaments of
each period according to their relative importance or prominence, to
follow a simpler and more natural plan. Thus, the ornaments dealt with
in each succeeding epoch will in every case be those worn: (1) on the
head--diadems, tiaras, aigrettes, hair-pins, jewels for the hat and cap,
and earrings; (2) on the neck--necklaces and neck-chains hung with
numerous varieties of pendants; (3) on the breast--brooches, clasps,
buttons; (4) on the limbs--armlets, anklets, bracelets, rings; and
(5) on the body and waist--girdles and their various attachments,
chatelaines, and miscellaneous pendent ornaments, such as pomanders,
scent-cases, rosaries, etc.
A few preliminary words may be said respecting the evolution of some of
the various ornaments employed on the different parts of the body.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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