The present master of the jeweller's art is René Lalique of Paris,
universally recognised as the greatest of modern artists in this class
of the fine handicrafts. He possesses a perfect mastery over materials
of all sorts, even of such as ivory, horn, and mother-of-pearl, and
above all enamel, especially that in open settings. To his wonderful
dexterity of technique he unites a fertile imagination and infinite
resource of design in the direction of naturalistic forms, as flowers,
winged insects, and human figures.
The style of Lalique, freed entirely as it is from the forms of
tradition, is carried out by several artists of individual talent, such
as Lucien Gaillard, Gaston Laffitte, Georges Fouquet, Comte du Suau de
la Croix, Vever, René Foy, and Louis Bonny. It has, in addition, hosts
of imitators, whose productions are wrought with rare skill, but
display, nevertheless, singular disregard of appropriateness and
utility, and are further marred in many cases by eccentricities of
design.
Much original, if not always very attractive, work has been produced
also in Germany and Austria since the full expansion of the _Nouveau
Art_ movement about the year 1897. Among the first in Germany to display
activity in the design and production of jewellery in the new style have
been the artists Hirzel and Möhring, and Piloty of Munich. Van der
Velde, Olbrich, and Schaper and J. H. Werner of Berlin have all obtained
a reputation for their work in this direction. The movement has
been fostered with success in the leading art schools, under the
superintendence of Gnauth at Nuremberg, Hammer and Göss at Karlsruhe,
Graff at Stuttgart and Dresden, and Luthmer at Frankfort. The chief
centres in Germany for the production of jewellery are Pforzheim, Hanau,
and Gmünd. The leading craftsmen of Pforzheim are Zerrenden, Fahrner,
Friessler, and Stoffler; while Gmünd possesses the well-known jeweller
Hermann Bauer.
[Illustration: _PLATE LII_ MODERN FRENCH JEWELLERY]
Among the leaders of the new art movement in Austria are the sculptor
Gurschner, Dietrich, Prutscher, and Franz Hauptmann; while Elsa Unger,
Anna Wagner, and Eugenie Munk have carried out distinctive work on the
same lines. Belgium has produced some able craftsmen in the persons of
Paul Dubois the sculptor, Ph. Wolfers, and Van Strydonck. The modern
school of Denmark possesses the artists Slott-Möller, Bindesböll,
Magnussen, and Bollin.
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