England, the pioneer of the latter-day renaissance of the decorative
arts, can boast of a number of craftsmen of distinction in artistic
jewellery. Among the leaders of the movement whose style and
individuality have secured them recognition are Mr. H. Wilson, Mr. Henry
H. Cunynghame, Mr. and Mrs. Nelson Dawson, Mr. C. R. Ashbee, Mr. Harold
Stabler, Mr. Edgar Simpson, Mr. Alexander Fisher, Mrs. Bethune, Mr. and
Mrs. Arthur Gaskin, Mrs. Newman, Mrs. Traquair, Mrs. Hadaway, Mr. and
Mrs. Partridge, and Mr. F. S. Robinson. One may also name H.H. Princess
Louise Augusta of Schleswig-Holstein, and H.H. the Ranee of Sarawak, in
addition to a number of others whose work has figured in exhibitions
such as those held by the Arts and Crafts Society. The name of Mr. A.
Lazenby Liberty, who has done much to foster new design in England,
likewise deserves mention.
Messrs. Tiffany of New York have shown how artistic design may be
combined with fine and rare gems--the natural instinct for which will
have to be gratified so long as jewellery is worn. A number of other
firms both in England and France have in recent years displayed
remarkable advance in this direction, also, as in the case of Messrs.
Boucheron, in a skilful combination of coloured stones, as well as in a
reserved use of enamel.
A hopeful sign for the future of this refined art is the thoroughness
with which it is taught in schools of art throughout the country, and
the eagerness and success with which it is practised also by a number
of gifted amateurs. The work produced, though far behind that of
continental craftsmen in point of execution, avoids many of the
extravagances of the "new art," and exhibits, for the most part, taste
and reserve in design, and adaptability to ultimate uses.
CHAPTER XXXIV
PEASANT JEWELLERY
Until the middle of the nineteenth century the peasants and natives of
every country district of Europe wore modest gold and silver jewellery,
of small pecuniary value, but of great artistic interest. A few years
ago peasant jewellery was seldom sought for, and comparatively unknown;
and collectors, better informed in other respects, did not think of
saving it from the melting-pot. It is now, however, beginning to attract
some of the attention it deserves.
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