Bracelets and armlets may be considered together, for though the
bracelet is properly only a decoration for the wrist, the term has
become descriptive of any ornament worn upon the arm. The bracelet,
together with the necklace, were the earliest ornaments used for the
decoration of mankind. Amongst savage tribes both were worn in some
form or another--the necklace as an ornament pure and simple, but the
bracelet serving frequently a practical purpose, sometimes as a shield
for the arm in combat, sometimes covered with spikes, and used for
offensive purposes. While used universally by women in the form of a
band, closed, or open on one side, or else in the shape of a spiral, or
fashioned like a chain, the bracelet has been worn from the earliest
times in the East by men also, especially by princes as one of the
insignia of royalty, and by distinguished persons in general.
Of all jewels the simplest and at the same time perhaps the most
interesting and important is the finger ring. It is universally employed
as an article of personal ornament, and has been worn by both sexes at
almost all times, and in nearly every country. Sometimes it is an
object of use as the signet ring, or a token of dignity as the bishop's
ring. Sometimes it has a symbolical significance, as the wedding-ring.
Sometimes it is purely ornamental. Most finger rings may be said to be
formed of two parts--the circular portion which surrounds the finger,
known as the hoop or shank, and the enlarged or upper portion which is
called the bezel. This latter term, applied to the upper side of the
ring, which is broadened to receive an ornament of some kind, generally
a stone, seems to have originally designated the basil or projecting
flange, that retained the stone in its setting. The term _collet_, also
used for the whole top including the stone or seal, is similarly derived
from the flange or collet in which the stone is set. From its box-like
shape this part of the ring is also called the _chaton_.
[Illustration: Buckle, with buckle-plate and tag. German, about 1490.
(Victoria and Albert Museum.)]
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