Among all Oriental nations of antiquity of whom we have any accurate
knowledge, earrings have always been in general use by both sexes; but
as far as can be judged from monuments, these ornaments appear in Egypt
to have been worn by women alone. M. Fontenay[2] claims that the holes
visible in the ears of statues of Rameses II--such as the colossal
head in the British Museum, cast from the original in the temple of
Ipsamboul--have been pierced for earrings. But even so, earrings had
probably only a sacerdotal or sacred significance, and were worn by the
sovereign only, and on very exceptional occasions. Earrings, however,
found very little favour even among women until what in Egyptian
chronology are comparatively late times. Those that do occur are of the
simplest kind, formed of a ring-shaped hook for piercing the lobe of the
ear, hung with a blossom-shaped or symbolical pendant. Large penannular
rings of various materials were occasionally employed as ear ornaments;
the opening in them enabling them to be fitted on to the upper part of
the ear.
[2] Fontenay (E.), _Les bijoux anciens et modernes_, p. 98.
Necklaces appear to have played a very prominent part in Egyptian
ornaments. No tomb seems to be without them, and the wall paintings also
prove their very general use. Most frequent is a chain consisting of
various materials strung together, generally with a large drop or figure
in the centre, and pendent motives introduced at definite intervals. The
latter, of every imaginable variety of design, occur in rhythmical
alternation, and are occasionally introduced between two rows of beads.
The peculiarly severe and regular decorations of the Egyptians--more
particularly the various charming adaptations of open and closed
lotus flowers--are here found in the finest forms of application.
Especially is this shown on the ornament called the _usekh_ collar,
which figures on every mummy and mummy case. Formed of rows, generally
of cylinder-shaped beads with pendants, strung together and gathered up
at either end to the head of a lion or hawk or to a lotus flower, this
collar or breast decoration covered the shoulders and chest, and is
found in that position on the mummy, attached frequently to the
winding-sheet.
One of the most important Egyptian ornaments is the _pectoral_, which,
as its name implies, was worn on the breast, suspended by a ribbon or
chain. In all probability it formed a portion of the everyday costume of
men and women, but its symbolism points to its chief use as a mortuary
ornament, and it is found on almost every mummy. Pectorals are usually
in the form of a _pylon_ or shrine, in the middle of which is often a
scarab, the emblem of transformation and immortality, adored by the
goddesses _Isis_ or _Nephthys_.
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