Statues, like the Lady of Elché, show that Phoenician women wore three
or four necklaces at the same time, one above the other; these vary in
the size of their elements, from the small beads about the throat, to
the large acorn-shaped pendants which hang low upon the breast. They
display a striking admixture of Greek and Egyptian motives. Gold beads
are often intermixed with small carnelian and onyx bugles, to which hang
amphoræ formed alternately of gold or crystal. The Phoenicians were
particularly skilled in the manufacture of glass: occasionally the sole
materials of their necklaces are beads of glass. A necklace from Tharros
in Sardinia, now in the British Museum, is formed of beads of glass and
gold; of its three pendants, the centre one is the head of a woman with
Egyptian coiffure, and the two others lotus flowers.
Finger rings are of all materials--gold, silver, bronze, and even glass.
They are usually set with a scarab or scaraboid, fixed or revolving on a
pivot. Silver is less common than gold; but in the British Museum is a
ring of almost pure Greek workmanship from Cyprus which is entirely of
silver, save for an exquisitely modelled golden fly that rests on the
bezel.
CHAPTER II
GREEK JEWELLERY
Before dealing with Greek jewellery of the classic period some reference
must be made to the primitive and archaic ornaments that preceded it.
The period and phase of Greek culture to which the primitive ornaments
belong is known widely as "Mycenæan"--a title it owes to the discoveries
made at Mycenæ, where in 1876 Schliemann brought to light the famous
gold treasure now preserved in the National Museum at Athens. A
characteristic motive of the decoration of these objects is the use
of spiral patterns almost identical with those employed on Celtic
ornaments. Besides these and other primitive exhibitions of decorative
skill, we find representations of naturalistic animal forms, such as
cuttlefish, starfish, butterflies, and other creatures. These are
displayed in repoussé patterns worked in low relief. Among the most
notable objects are a number of gold crowns usually in the form of
elongated oval plates ornamented with fine work chiefly in the shape
of rosettes and spirals.
Most numerous are the gold plates intended to be fastened to the
dress. They are ornamented with spirals and radiating lines, with the
above-mentioned animal forms, or with leaves showing the veins clearly
marked (Pl. III, 1). Specially worthy of note also are the finger rings
with the designs sunk into the oval surface of the bezel.
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