The chief characteristic of Etruscan necklaces is their ornamentation
with pendent _bullæ_. The bulla, from the Latin word meaning a bubble,
was usually made of two concave plates of gold fastened together so as
to form a globe--lentoid or vase-shaped-within which an amulet was
contained. In Etruscan art both men and women are represented wearing
necklaces and even bracelets formed of bullæ. Occasionally, instead of a
bulla, is some such object as the tooth or claw of an animal or a small
primitive flint arrow-head, which served as an amulet.
[Illustration: _PLATE VII_ ETRUSCAN JEWELLERY
(BROOCHES, DIADEM, BRACELET, RINGS)]
Of bracelets of primitive work are a famous pair in the British Museum,
which were discovered in a tomb at Cervetri (Cære). They are composed
of thin plates of gold measuring 8 inches in length by 2¼ inches in
width, divided into six sections, ornamented with scenes thoroughly
Assyrian in character, indicated by lines of microscopic granulations
(Pl. VII, 4).
Etruscan fibulæ of gold are generally formed of a short arc-shaped bow
and a long sheath for the pin decorated with minute granular work. Upon
the upper surface are often rows of small models of animals. Upon the
sheath of a large early fibula found at Cervetri (Cære), and now in the
British Museum, is a double row of twenty-four standing lions (Pl. VII,
1). The bow of the later fibulæ is sometimes in the form of a single
figure, as that of a crouching lion. A considerable number of small
fibulæ of this type appear to have been worn in rows down the seam of
the dress. Two series of these, the one numbering twenty-one and the
other thirty-nine, both found in a tomb at Vulci, are in the Louvre.
The Etruscans appear to have had a special love for rings; every finger,
including the thumb, was covered with them, and a considerable number
have been discovered in the tombs. The majority are composed of scarabs
mounted much in the same style as those of the Egyptians. One of the
finest Etruscan rings in the British Museum is formed by two lions,
whose bodies make up the shank, their heads and fore-paws and supporting
a bezel in filigree which holds the signet stone--a small scarabæus
charged with a lion regardant. Another remarkable class of Etruscan
rings has large oval bezels measuring upwards of an inch and a half
across. These are set with an engraved gem, and have wide borders
ornamented with various designs. An example in the British Museum shows
a pattern formed of dolphins and waves.
CHAPTER IV
ROMAN JEWELLERY
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