Both cameos and large intaglios were in frequent use as pendent
ornaments, and in the most recent pieces of Roman jewellery imperial
gold coins were employed for rings, bracelets, and especially for
pendants to necklaces. For the latter purpose they are not infrequently
found set in _opus interrasile_--the open-work characteristic of late
Roman jewellery. The best example of cameos and coins mounted thus is a
necklace in the Cabinet des Médailles at Paris.[3]
[3] Babelon (E. C. F.), _Catalogue des camées antiques de la
Bib. Nat._ (No. 367), p. 199.
In the case of bracelets (_armillæ_) which were favourite ornaments
among the Romans, two kinds have to be noticed. The first, termed
_dextrocherium_, was meant to be worn round the right wrist, and follows
the same rules of formation as the necklace, but no pendent motives are
introduced. Other bracelets are formed of two rounded halves of solid
character, hinged, and closed by a snap. The second kind of bracelet
or armlet, worn on the upper arm, was the _brachiale_ or _torques
brachialis_; another was the _spinther_, which kept its place on the arm
by its own elasticity. The difference, however, between the different
Latin terms for the armlet is somewhat obscure. Originally of pure gold,
bracelets were subsequently set with precious stones and engraved gems,
and, like the specimen in the Imperial Cabinet at Vienna, with coins
dating from the third century A.D. The serpent form appears to have been
a favourite one among Roman ladies, and a fine pair of armlets of this
design are in the Victoria and Albert Museum (Pl. VIII, 11).
[Illustration: _PLATE VIII_ ROMAN JEWELLERY]
The Romans appear to have been more extravagant in their rings than any
other people. Very few ornamental rings are earlier in date than the
time of the Empire, when the passion for gold rings adorned with
precious stones and engraved gems seems to have pervaded all classes;
and it reached such extravagance that Martial speaks of a man who wore
six on every finger, and recommends another who had one of monstrous
size to wear it on his leg instead of his hand. Some individuals, we
learn, had different sets of rings for summer and winter, those for
the latter season being too heavy for hot weather. Their weight was
sometimes very great, and it is not to be wondered that complaint was
made of their liability to slip off when the finger was greasy at a
meal.
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