A considerable proportion of Byzantine ornaments, as shown by the
mosaics, consisted of gems sewn upon the dress. Actual specimens of
jewellery are naturally of considerable rarity. The British Museum
contains a small but representative collection.[4] They show a
difference from the jewels of classical times chiefly in the
substitution of coarse repoussé and open-work--the _opus interrasile_ of
later Roman work--for fine filigree and granulation; yet filigree was
employed with skill, and exercised a considerable influence on the work
of European craftsmen. In general form the ornaments of the Lower Empire
retained the character of ancient work, but added to it fresh designs to
suit the change of religion with its accompanying symbolism. Enamel and
coloured stones, employed with a reserve in antique ornaments, now
formed the chief artistic aspect of jewellery. Cloisonné inlay, that is
to say the incrustation of glass or garnet in cells, was made use of,
but cloisonné enamel was preferred. In the majority of ornaments,
however, precious stones appear to have predominated.[5]
[4] Dalton (O. M.), _Catalogue of early Christian antiquities
in the British Museum_. 1901.
[5] Cunynghame (H. H.), _European enamels,_ p. 40.
As ornaments for the head, wreaths were worn, especially upon festal
occasions. From the earliest Christian times the bride and bridegroom at
their wedding wore, as in some countries at the present day, crowns of
gold, silver, green leaves, or flowers, which were afterwards returned
to the church.
Early Byzantine earrings naturally follow the Roman patterns. Some take
the form of a penannular wire loop holding a thimble-shaped cage of
filigree, the flat end of which is closed, and has in the centre a
setting for a precious stone. The majority of Byzantine earrings are,
however, of a peculiar design. The most usual type, from the sixth
century onwards, is crescent-shaped, formed of gold repoussé and
open-worked in the form of a cross patée within a circle, supported on
either side by peacocks confronted. Dating from the finest period, i.e.
about the twelfth century, is a pair of earrings in the British Museum,
in the shape of a segment of a circle, ornamented on both sides with
figures of birds in blue, green, and white cloisonné enamel. Upon the
outer border of each segment are pearls fixed upon radiating pins,
alternating with pyramids of pellets; on the inner is a disc decorated
with similar enamels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account