Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
In many countries it is the custom for the bereaved to put away all their
bright gems and colored jewelry, for the entire period of mourning.
Special jewelry is made for the mourning months. This may include a
memorial ring in gold, with some token of the beloved dead. Otherwise,
the jewelry for this period will be limited to pieces made of black
enamel and jet. During the period of semi-mourning, which extends for the
second six months, the more unobtrusive colors may be chosen from the
jewel chest, and begin to reappear. But a full year will pass, save for
most exceptional circumstances, before the bright constellation of jewels
again takes the ascendant.
_Other Observations_
A few more general observations may be made, in the field of the
etiquette of jewelry.
The time of day has a share in the determination of the jewelry. Just
as a gourmet never smokes before the coffee, so a woman of taste never
wears diamonds before lunch. In the evening, conversely, save on the most
informal occasions such as a surprise party or an outing, she will not
wear a tailored piece of leather, silver, or wood.
_Color Combinations_
Gems of various colors may be combined on a single piece, but it is
inharmonious to wear two jewels of differently colored stones. Thus
a tiara of rubies will clash with a necklace of emeralds; a sapphire
bracelet will war against a pair of ruby earclips. The colors may not be
at odds, but the jewels instead of blending will vie with one another;
the effect will be of discord instead of harmony. Sets of matching jewels
enhance one another, and ameliorate the wearer’s measure of beauty.
_Restraint_
Jewels in too many places create a confused rather than a blending
effect. If earclips, necklace and a dress clip are worn, a jeweled comb
or hair-clasp will add an excessive touch, unless the jeweled part is
visible only from the back. An exception to this is the tiara, which
adds regal height and dignity, but of course a tiara is worn only with a
décolleté gown on a most formal occasion. If a tiara is worn, the other
jewels should match it in period design, antique, classical, romantic, or
modernistic.
_Eyeglasses_
I have already mentioned eyeglasses. The simpler these are, the better.
Certainly they should not gleam with gold nor glitter with rhinestones
when one is wearing earclips. The meretricious sparkle of the eyeglass
rims draws attention from the earclips—which is the reverse of the proper
procedure, for well designed clips can lure attention away from the
glasses.
_The Lorgnette_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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