[Illustration: 53. PORTRAIT OF FLIPPY. _The author’s poodle is sculptured in 22 karat gold. The eye is represented by a yellow diamond, and the collar is made of baguettes._] [Illustration: 54. FLORIAN. _This replica of Emperor Franz Josef I’s snow-white show horse, immortalized in Felix Salten’s book, is wrought in platinum with 246 diamonds. The bridle and hoofs are made of pure fine-gold._] [Illustration: 55. SET OF EARCLIPS AND BROOCH. _The same motif is repeated in both the pin and the earclips without making them identical. Movement is suggested by the sculptured effect of the leaves. The delicacy of this design makes it ideal for the petite woman._] [Illustration: 56. GOLD AND DIAMOND WATCH. _Gubelin of Switzerland designed this gold watch bracelet with a diamond motif which gracefully conceals the face of the watch. The wide band is well-suited to a heavy wrist._] [Illustration: 57. PEARL NECKLACE WITH TWO DIAMOND MOTIFS. _To stress a delicate neckline, three strands of perfectly matched pearls are tapered down to two strands in back. The two abstract ornaments of platinum and round and baguette diamonds are both decorative and functional—one of the motifs contains the clasp._] [Illustration: 58. TABLE OF STONES. _The four most desired shapes of diamonds (from top to bottom)_: _The round brilliant-cut diamond_ _The emerald-cut diamond_ _The marquise-cut diamond_ _The pearshape diamond_] [Illustration: 59. MODELS OF THE KOHINOOR DIAMOND. _The model in the hand shows the famous stone as it appeared to Queen Victoria when presented to her in 1850 by the East India Company. At that time it weighed 186 carats but, because the Indian form of cutting was thought to smother some of the natural fire, the Queen decided to have it re-cut. After 38 days of work, the re-cut stone, shown in the replica on the cushion, weighs only 109 carats. The Kohinoor is now in Queen Elizabeth’s crown._] [Illustration: 60. GOLD CIGAR BOX. _Presented to the late King Carol II of Roumania, this unique box is engraved with a map of his country depicting the agriculture and industry. The natural resources are highlighted by precious stones—a different stone is used for each product of raw material. The clasp, representing the royal coat of arms, is made of diamonds and platinum._] PART FOUR _The Techniques and Care of Jewels_ CHAPTER 13 _The Techniques of Gems_ I have been using the terminology of the field of gems and jewelry, taking it for granted that the meanings would be understood. Perhaps it is time to make these terms more precise. _Definitions_ A jewel, or a piece of jewelry, is a costly ornament, especially of gold, platinum, or precious stones; or of stones set in one of these metals.