Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
A precious stone is one highly prized for human adornment. Its value
is measured mainly by its beauty, its rarity, and its durability. The
precious stones are, by general understanding, limited to the diamond,
the ruby, the emerald, and the sapphire. The pearl, though strictly not
a stone and far less durable, is nevertheless, because of its beauty and
the rarity of superb specimens, included among the precious gems.
A gem is a precious stone of rare quality, especially when cut and
polished. All other stones used in jewelry are semiprecious.
_Light on the Stones_
Stones may be characterized according to their response to light.
Lustrous stones are those which catch the light brilliantly and glow
almost as though with an inner flame. The cutting of the gem may aid
in this effect, as with the diamond. Vitreous stones are of the glassy
type, not lustrous. These may be transparent, permitting one to see
objects clearly through the stone, like a fine crystal; or they may be
translucent, permitting one to see light and shadow but not distinct
objects through the stone. When light falls upon such translucent stones
as moss agate, moonstone and agate, there is a soft glow.
Or stones may be opaque, permitting no passage of light, like the
turquoise. Because of their crystalline structure, even the opaque
stones, however, may respond glowingly to light. Sometimes when the
stone was formed, tiny cracks or bubbles stayed between the crystals. As
the stone is moved, these cracks cause a play of prismatic colors which
seems almost the sparking of an inner fire. To the names of such stones
the term _fire_ is prefixed; they are extremely rare and beautiful. The
Empress Josephine had a fire opal so remarkably aflame that she called it
“The Burning of Troy.”
_Star Gems_
Another variation from regularity, which can scarcely be called an
imperfection or a flaw, enhances the beauty and the value of a precious
stone. A certain break or tiny space in the crystalline structure may
produce a radiation of three lines crossing at a single point, giving the
effect of a six-pointed star. The star ruby and the star sapphire are
among the most highly prized of all gems.
_The Pearl_
The pearl has been described as “a disease of the oyster.” A tiny foreign
object, such as a grain of sand or a chip off the inside of the shell
(this inside is called nacre or mother-of-pearl) becomes imbedded in the
oyster itself; it is, of course, an irritant. Drawing upon its natural
resources but unable to expel the foreigner, the oyster protects itself
by isolating the intruder, building around the speck a thin layer of an
iridescent fluid, similar to that which lines the oyster shell. This
fluid hardens, layer after layer. Given proper time—about four or five
years—and the proper species of oyster—not the kind commonly used for
food—and a pearl is born.
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