Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
1. Brilliant. This is used especially for large diamonds, which are then
often called brilliants. The gem is cut as though two pyramids with
sixteen-sided bases were placed base against base, the points at opposite
ends. The upper point is truncated, to form the table. Brilliant-cut gems
usually have 58 facets, 33 above the girdle, 25 below. For the sake of
the superb light effects achieved by this cut, there is often sacrificed
a considerable portion of the original stone.
2. Rose. This may be used for smaller diamonds and other gems. The rose
cut is circular, with the table slightly domed. It is flat underneath.
The part above the girdle is usually cut into 24 equal facets.
3. Square. This cut, as its name indicates, provides a square table. The
facets are cut parallel to the girdle, both above it and below. Since
they will thus seem to be proceeding downward in a succession of steps,
this is also called the step cut.
4. Emerald. The emerald cut may have either a square or an oblong table.
The corners, instead of being pointed and at right angles as in the
square cut, are cut off and faceted. As the name implies, this is a
frequent cut for the emerald, but the topaz, amethyst, aquamarine, and
other stones—even the diamond—may be square cut or emerald cut.
5. Marquise. The marquise cut is somewhat like an oval, but pointed at
the ends: boat-shaped. It is sometimes called navette.
6. Pear-shape. This very fancy shape is cut like a marquise but with one
side rounded out, giving a tear or drop-like appearance. It lends itself
very well to free-hanging parts on necklaces and earclips. This cut is
growing in popularity for an engagement ring.
There are many other possibilities of special faceting and fancy cuts.
Stones may be cut in the shape of a kite, a keystone, a lozenge, a
triangle, a half-moon or other figure. Popular among special shapes is
the baguette, “little stick,” in which the stone is cut to resemble a
small rod.
Increasingly in recent years, especially as a sentimental souvenir
and even more in the new engagement rings, diamonds are being cut
heart-shaped. This is a difficult and a costly pattern to produce since
not every diamond lends itself to be cut into heart shape.
Facet cuts have come to be far more frequent than cabochon. Cabochon,
usually in a medium cut, is still used for star rubies and star
sapphires, as its smooth surface most lavishly displays the radiance
of the star. Also, the moving band of light in the cat’s-eye and the
reflection in the moonstone are at their best in cabochon. When the color
in a ruby, garnet, or sapphire is beautifully deep, the curve of the
cabochon takes fullest advantage of that depth and richness. Cabochon cut
is also used for most opaque stones, as the opal, the turquoise, and the
jade. The baguette cut is most often used around a ring, or as a frame
for larger stones. Each cut has its separate beauty, and is designed to
bring out the richest qualities of its gem.
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