Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
_Hardness of the Stones_
One reason for the pre-eminence of the diamond is its indestructibility.
It is by far the hardest of all stones. Setting the standard of the
diamond at ten, a table has been made of descending hardness. The whole
numbers on this scale are marked as follows:
10 diamond
9 corundum
8 topaz
7 quartz
6 feldspar
5 apatite
4 fluorspar
3 calcite
2 gypsum
1 talc
It is at once obvious that few of these are precious, or even
semi-precious, stones. What must be noted is that this list is not a
proportionate scale; that is, it indicates order, but by no means any
specific degree of hardness. The difference in hardness between the
diamond and its neighbor, corundum, is greater than that between corundum
and talc. The best that can be said is that, as they are arranged, each
one can scratch all those listed below it.
Thus there is no other stone that can scratch a diamond. The old saying
“diamond cut diamond” means that two champions are evenly matched,
and diamonds can be cut and polished only in this fashion. A wheel of
corundum or other substance is coated with diamond dust; when this is
applied to a diamond stone, an equal process of attrition takes place;
diamond dust is worn off both the wheel and the stone. This dust, of
course, may be used for further cutting and polishing to make the
finished stone.
The cutting referred to here is the shaping of the facets and the
surfaces of the stone; for most crystalline formations, however hard,
are brittle; that is, they may be split or cleaved along the lines of
the crystal edge. This accounts for both the possibility and the danger
of cleaving the raw diamond. Formed under tremendous pressure beneath
the surface of the earth, a diamond may be distorted in its growth;
it may be an unshapely and often a fairly large stone, which must be
cleft to a proper shape and size for setting. This cleaving, effected
by a single hammer tap, is made only after minute examination and
re-examination—sometimes a year’s pondering—by an anxious expert. After
this cleavage, a diamond will be much smaller than when it was mined,
but it counterbalances the loss of size by the greater brilliance and
beauty the new shape discloses. The Kohinoor diamond was over 700 carats
when it was found; when cut it was no more than 186⅙ carats; and since
then it was recut, as a brilliant, to its present weight of 106⅙ carats.
Sculpture has been defined as the process of removing the excess from the
marble statue already within the block; how much more this is true of the
precious stone, which the lapidary releases from its dull confinement!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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