Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Diamond dust, black diamonds, and hard metals may be used to shape,
engrave and polish the other stones. A list of some of the stones
frequently used in ornaments and jewels would rank them, for hardness, in
the following order:
diamond 10
sapphire 9
ruby 8.8
chrysoberyl 8.5
spinel 8
topaz 8
aquamarine 8
emerald 7.8
zircon 7.8
tourmaline 7.5
amethyst 7
bloodstone 7
chalcedony 7
onyx 7
jade 6.5
peridot 6.3
moonstone 6.3
turquoise 6
opal 6
lapis lazuli 5.2
pearl 4
malachite 3.5
coral 3.5
amber 2.5
jet 2.5
_Qualities of a Stone_
The qualities that determine the value of a stone are difficult to
specify. Hardness, size, weight and shape are obvious elements. Lustre
and the powers of reflecting and refracting light clearly contribute
to the value. The manner in which a stone is cut may add to its value,
either because of the light effects or because of the interesting
shape. One might expect perfection, freedom from flaw, to be important,
and indeed in the diamond this is so. The most common flaw in the
diamond, by the way, is not a crack but a speck or tiny specks of carbon
remaining between the crystals, the diamond being a crystallized form
of carbon. In other stones—as we have observed of the star ruby, the
star sapphire and the cat’s eye—a physical flaw may result in a greater
aesthetic desirability. Other special features may enhance the value of a
particular stone; a recently discovered ruby is the only known example of
a double star, with not six but twelve rays. The history and associations
of a gem or jewel, dramatic or sentimental, storied or personal, may be
what makes its possession desirable.
_Measurement_
One seldom speaks of the size of a precious stone; other things being
equal, its value is estimated by its weight. The unit of weight, in
measuring precious stones, is the carat. As the word carat comes from
the Arabic, meaning the nut or bean of the carob tree, it was evidently
in olden times a rather imprecise measure. It has now been made definite
as two-tenths of a gram (1c. = 0.2 gr.). It takes 141¾ carats to make an
ounce, and therefore 2,268 carats to make a pound. Smaller diamonds are
measured by points; one hundred points equal one carat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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