Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
In general, it is inadvisable to use a brush for cleaning jewelry, as
it tends to loosen the stones. Eventually—not while being cleaned, but
during an otherwise pleasant evening—a stone may fall from the setting.
Ammonia, soap, and other cleaning agents are likely to leave a film. This
may be imperceptible; a woman may think she has “cleaned it all off”; and
yet it may greatly lessen the brilliance of the stone.
Soaking in boiling water—with or without chemicals—is dangerous. Some
alloys as well as some stones cannot stand such treatment. Likewise
sudden heat, or sudden cooling, may seriously damage certain stones; some
may even crack, or break. Most delicate are the emerald, the peridot, the
aquamarine, and the turquoise.
The turquoise especially should not come into contact with fatty or oily
substances. It is porous, and such substances are likely to change its
color, or to make it dull.
In every case, when she is tempted to apply home cleaning to her jewels,
a woman should remember that the jeweler is equipped with steam blowers
and other modern devices, each for its particular type of stone, and he
is glad to be called upon to give his expert knowledge and gentle care.
_Pearls_
Perhaps most care is required in the handling of the pearl. Boiling, for
example, is almost sure to loosen any pearls in a jewel. All chemicals
are to be avoided.
For casual cleaning, a pearl necklace may be wiped with a clean and
slightly damp cloth. It should not be pulled; the best way is to roll it
on a towel.
If the necklace becomes too wet, the string may become loosened. A pearl
necklace, indeed, should be regularly restrung; there is little sense in
waiting until it breaks. When the knots near the clasp of the necklace
have become grey, restringing time has come.
One must be careful not to put perfume, or any liquid containing alcohol,
on, or close to, pearls. They may lose their lustre, or even start to
peel.
At the hairdresser’s, pearls should of course be removed before any
treatment. The heat of the dryer, for example, may loosen the pearls in
their settings.
_Reminders_
Some of the things in this chapter I have already said; this is a time
for reminders. And one important reminder is that, even if the front
pearls are strung without knots—and they will be more lustrous if thus
close together—a few pearls on each side of the clasp should always be
knotted. That is the danger spot for breaks.
Another helpful reminder is that elaborate jewels may be made with
removable or convertible parts. I have discussed in detail how a very
formal jewel, likely to be worn on rare occasions, may be so fashioned
that, in various smaller units, it can be enjoyed more freely and
frequently.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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