Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Even the engagement ring is susceptible to flattering new treatment. The
fact that the band may have grown too small provides a good occasion
for remodelling. In a dome-shaped arrangement of cultured pearls the
centered solitaire becomes a more significant gem, never more precious
but considerably more imposing.
_Infinite Riches in a Little Room_
Thus the little old jewel is capable of infinite surprises. The woman who
has never had one of her jewels remodelled just has to admire a new piece
of one of her friends and be told it is an old one remodelled: “Remember
that diamond brooch I used to wear?” Remembering the “before” and
beholding the “after,” a woman’s eyes will light with a new recognition.
The old jewels were, in the main, massy with metals. The new ones are
graced with an airy technique of jewel design. It is no commercial slogan
but experienced truth that the light modern patterns make the jewel
more beautiful and the wearer more gracefully young. And the husband,
who was last to yield and permit that “waste of time and money” called
a remodelling, will be the first to sense the new beauty and importance
of the jewel, and to extend his admiring praise. He will be touched that
the old stones, with their sentimental attachment, meant enough for them
still to be desired as current jewels; he will be delighted that the
remodelling has brought new ornaments at the cost of merely the setting,
not the stones; and by the effect on the jewel and on the wearer, he will
be entranced.
PART FIVE
_The Story of Rings and Famous Stones_
CHAPTER 16
_Romance of Rings_
_The Universal Ring_
Of all the jewels of history, most widespread in time and space, and upon
the human body is the ring. From the crown of the head to the tip of the
toes, the circular band has been an adornment and a symbol. In the ears,
around the neck, tight about the biceps, loose about the wrist, across
the chest, around the waist, in iron fetters at the ankle in days of
old to indicate the slave or in the self-imposed “slave anklet” of thin
gold today: men and women have worn rings of grass, of wood, of bone,
of metal. But especially upon the fingers there have been all sorts of
rings, for many purposes.
_The Magic Ring_
One of the earliest values found in rings was doubtless magic. This
worked in many ways, according to the beliefs of different times and
peoples. Simply to put a ring on another person’s finger was to bind that
person to you—an early magical belief which has endured as a symbol in
the engagement and the wedding ring. To protect the wearer against the
powers of evil in the world, rings are adorned with potent gems, or
carved with potent symbols. Turn the emerald in a ring on a poised snake,
and the snake was stricken blind, as the nineteenth-century poet Moore
remembers in _Lalla Rookh_:
Blinded like serpents when they gaze
Upon the emerald’s virgin blaze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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