Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The snake itself, being associated with the sybils and other prophets of
old and linked with man in earliest Bible story and man’s most fateful
hour, is also a most potent and frequent device. It might be carved upon
the ring, or the whole ring itself might represent a serpent, eating its
own tail—like the worm Ouroboros that winds around the world and keeps it
from bursting asunder—or with its head nestling upon its body, watching
for the approach of danger. Being itself a lurking danger, the snake
obviously was most fit to search out hidden evil. A snake ring of gold
with ruby eyes was often on the finger of George IV of England.
_Divining Rings_
Rings of hieroglyphic symbols, the sphinx, or later cabalistic devices,
were used by diviners and seers. Sometimes, to the unwitting eye, the
ring seemed an innocent adornment; when a soothsayer wished to make
use of a magic formula, a cunningly hinged portion opened to reveal
the mystical designs. In the Middle Ages, rings of astrologers and
soothsayers multiplied. Rings with signs of the zodiac were used to cast
a nativity. The powers of numbers were explored and exploited on rings.
The word ABRAXAS, frequent on rings of the time, is said to have drawn
its special power from the number force of the letters, which add up to
365 and thus encompass the entire year. Perhaps that is why Leap Year is
said to be unlucky for men.
A common design, born no doubt of the early sphinx, was the figure
of a fantastic monster compounded of many beasts. Imagination created
many of these hybrid and extremely powerful forms. Associated with the
ABRAXAS was a creature with the head of a cock, the body of a man with
outstretched hands holding a shield and a whip, the legs spread out and
becoming serpents with darting fangs. Especially sought for security
against shipwreck was a ring engraved with a human head adorned with an
elephant’s trunk grasping a trident, symbol of mastery over the sea.
_Renaissance Remedy Rings_
The Renaissance, resplendent with rings, made many to be used as amulets
to bring good fortune, or charms to ward off evil. Cellini made several
such for his noble patrons; they seemed, however, not to stem the tide of
sudden deaths. Against various vindictive powers special gems were once
more utilized, jacinth to bring good fortune to voyagers, sapphires to
keep the eyes keen (as some today employ the humbler carrot), garnet to
soothe the bite of hornet or wasp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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