Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Among other practical uses of finger rings may be mentioned their use as
money by the Gauls and other tribes of northern Europe. Women have had
mirrors set in their rings, to give them constant glimpses of beauty—or
a chance for quick repair. In eighteenth-century England and later—my
grandfather wore one—were rings capped with a little hammer to press the
tobacco down in pipes.
And there were rings for fighting. Roman gladiators added iron rings
to the power of their fists, sometimes even enlarging these with a bar
across the entire back of the hand, held by a leather thong across the
palm—predecessors of the infamous “brass knuckles.”
_Poison Rings_
Even more sinister, though mainly obsolete except in spy stories, is the
murderous poison ring. In some such rings, the poison could be ejected
through a tiny aperture in a point of the design, as in the lion’s claw
of a ring of Cesare Borgia’s. This point would normally be on the side of
the ring at the back of the hand, but it would be slipped around to the
palm outstretched to shake the hand of the unsuspecting victim. A firm
pressure of greeting became at once goodbye.
Another of the Borgias, Pope Alexander VI, would ask the man he destined
to death to open a cabinet for him. He gave the man a key ring, and as
the bar twisted in the massive lock, a prick injected the poison into the
pressing hand.
More frequent than these pressing devices, however, were rings with a
secret compartment or concealed receptacle that could be opened, to pour
out the poison, so that it might be mixed unnoticed when one was filling
a glass of wine for an unwanted guest.
This type of ring was also most useful for emergency suicides. When the
great Carthaginian commander Hannibal was captured by the Romans in 183
B.C., he ended his life by biting into the soft metal cap of his ring
which was filled with poison. In 1794 the French philosopher Condorcet,
arrested in the Revolution, made his exodus from a world in turmoil
through the aid of a poison ring. Numerous accounts of international
espionage in recent wars make it seem that, as a release from torture and
psychological brainwashing, the suicidal use of the poison ring is not
outworn. But many a ring, originally constructed to conceal a poison,
before it found rest in a museum was used as a conveyor of perfume.
A more humdrum use of the ring has been not to end but to mark the
passing hours. The first time-keeping ring was a miniature sundial. As
soon as escapements were compact enough, watches were set as the crowns
of rings; I have mentioned that two hundred years ago Mme. de Pompadour
wore a watch in a gold ring encircled with diamonds.
_Honorary Rings_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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