Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
A ring has often been used as a mark, token, or reward of distinction
or great service. Originally for valor in battle, these rings are now
used to mark distinction in many fields. In Germany for generations, the
greatest actor has worn the Ifflandring, which he takes from his hand to
bestow upon the performer of the next generation whom he deems his most
worthy successor. Another noted ring is the Mozart Ring, awarded to those
who meritoriously continue the composer’s tradition. There are today but
three wearers of the Mozart Ring: Bruno Walter, Herbert von Karajan, and
Carl Boehm.
_Posies and Lovers’ Rings_
The prettiest rings are those that have been used in courtship. Before
the brilliant solitaire, the large diamond that marks the formal
engagement, all sorts of posy rings, as they were called, were popular
gifts for centuries. An English book of 1624 bears the title “Love’s
Garland, or Posies for rings, handkerchiefs, and gloves, and such pretty
tokens as lovers send their loves.” This was in the main a collection
of little rhyming remarks or pithy sayings, to be engraved on rings,
or on the inside of ring bands when the ring itself was decorated with
stones in the form of flowers or lovers’ knots. A favorite was the Latin
motto _Amor vincit omnia_, (Love conquers all), which Chaucer in _The
Canterbury Tales_ put on a bracelet of the Prioress. But simple English
phrases abounded on these rings. “I am yours” is blunt enough to serve.
“My love is true To none but you” might make a suspicious maiden (but
what shy maid in love would question so?) wonder to how many the donor
had already shown love that was false. More to be trusted, perhaps, is
the pious soul that sent the motto: “In God and thee My joy shall be.” A
wit (or a gambler) might complacently have inscribed “I cannot show The
love I O.” A less wary but more learned fellow might proclaim, inside the
ring: “Let reason rule affection.” The practice of having rings engraved
with such posies was so common that in Shakespeare’s _As You Like It_ the
melancholy Jacques taunts Orlando:
“You are full of pretty answers. Have you not been acquainted
with goldsmiths’ wives, and conned them out of rings?”
I quote Shakespeare not because he is the most given to such references,
but because he is the best known of the many writers in whose works they
abound: jewels in jeweled phrases.
In other forms than posies, rings carry the language of love. They may,
of course, in engraved letters or letters shaped of stones, give the
initials or the name of the beloved. Or letters may record a significant
event in the course of the courtship, as when a cryptically boastful
Frenchman set a ring with the letters LACD, which pronounced in French
sound “Elle a cédé”—“She has yielded!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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