Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The first reason is physiological. It developed when various theories
of the blood circulated freely, before the blood itself was known to
circulate. The Romans spoke of the _vena amoris_, the vein of love, but
the idea was earlier expressed by the Greeks, who credited it to the
Egyptians. This vein of love, they declared, connected the third finger
of the left hand directly with the heart, which is the seat, as everyone
knows, of the tender passion.
The second reason is the product of logical elimination. The analysis
was made by Macrobius, a Roman commentator of the late fourth century.
The thumb, Macrobius declared, is too busy to be set apart for special
dedication. Because of the shape of the hand, the forefinger and the
little finger are only half protected. The middle finger (being in his
time used by mothers as a practical suppository and by doctors for anal
exploration) was too opprobrious. This left only what he called the
_pronubus_, the one “for the nuptial,” which has ever since been called
the ring finger. On the left hand, to indicate the woman’s subjection, it
is the engagement finger.
The third explanation grows out of old church practice. The bride was
blessed “in the name of the Father and the Son and the Holy Ghost.”
Starting with the thumb, if the bridegroom touched one finger with each
name, he would complete the trinity with the middle finger, then put the
ring on the next one. That finger is the husband’s to whom the woman owes
allegiance next to God.
For a long time, it should be mentioned, the wedding ring was worn on the
right hand; sometimes on the little finger, as the least obtrusive; while
in many eastern lands it has been worn upon the thumb.
_Counting Fingers_
In his _Treatise of Spousals_ written in 1680, Henry Swinburne declared
that the wedding ring “is to be worn on the fourth finger of the left
hand, next unto the little finger.” Since his time there has been
confusion in the counting.
If we name the fingers, the matter is simple enough: holding the arms
outstretched, palms down, and starting from the inside, we have the
thumb, the index finger (or pointer or forefinger), the middle finger,
the ring finger, and the little finger (or, to use the word borrowed from
children, the pinkie).
Numbers complicated the picture. Swinburne counted the thumb as the first
finger. The Elizabethans a century before him, as we noted in their
practice of indicating their attitude toward matrimony, counted the
little finger as the first. The common system of counting today starts
not with the thumb, but next to it. Thus the index finger is the first;
and the engagement and the wedding ring adorn the third finger of the
left hand. Perhaps it is wiser to speak of the fingers by their names.
The important thing is that they be fitly adorned.
_Memorial Rings_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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