Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Lighthearted ceremonies were no more than flyspecks on a pattern of
permanent matrimony, with no frills of separation or easy divorce.
Marriages were “made in heaven”; their earthly aspect ended only at the
grave. A married couple had a long time to be fond of or at least to grow
used to one another. Death made a great gap in the pattern of family
life, so that it came to be marked by a memorial ring. The more pious,
indeed, did not await the fearful summons to wear its grim reminder;
many wore mortuary rings that, like the skeleton at the feast, kept
their final fate solemnly in the minds of the living. These might be
shaped with a death’s head, or open to reveal a skeleton or a crucifix.
Or they might present a somber motto: “Breathe pain, death gain,” or the
forthright counsel, “Live to die.” The favorite stone for such rings, of
course, was jet.
Many a will provided money for the purchase of memorial rings by family
or friends, thus hoping to keep the dead one alive in thoughts. “Bind me
to your hearts with bands of gold.” When Anne of Cleves, divorced wife
of Henry VIII, died in 1557, she left money for memorial rings. In 1616
William Shakespeare left twenty-six shillings sixpence apiece to Hamnet
Sadler, William Reynolds and “to my fellows,” the actors John Hemynge,
Richard Burbage, and Henry Cundell, to buy them rings in his memory. He
left no other jewels, no books, and his second-best bed to his wife.
While the 250 odd rings of England’s last King Henry were probably seldom
equalled for one person, a more modest but more representative listing
was given, in 1649, of the rings of a country lady. She possessed, among
other jewels, a toadstone ring, two Turkies (turquoises), six thumb
rings, three alderman’s seals, five gemmels and four death’s heads.
Always, in every period and every guise, the realm of jewelry has been
marked by the reign of the ring.
CHAPTER 17
_Some Famous Stones_
History and fiction throughout the ages find mystery, glamour and romance
in the stories of great jewels. _The Count of Monte Cristo_, one of the
most successful of all romances, has its hero achieve his goal by finding
a hidden treasure of great jewels. _The Queen’s Necklace_, another of
Dumas’ masterpieces, centers its intrigue around a necklace fraudulently
secured, upon which hangs the evidence of Marie Antoinette’s fidelity. Or
one thinks of a marauding foreigner, plucking the great emerald from the
eye socket of an Orient god—then followed, as in Dunsany’s grisly play
_A Night at an Inn_, by the great stone god itself, come to crush the
desecrator and regain its vision.
_The Black Prince’s Ruby_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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