Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
As the Queen’s power grew—in 1876 she became the first ruler of the
British Empire, on whose flag the sun never set—the legend of the diamond
changed: only queens could wear the gem and prosper. From Victoria it
went to her daughter-in-law, Queen Alexandria, and it is now part of the
treasure of the royal ladies of the British throne.
_Tavernier_
Jean Baptiste Tavernier was the first of the great travelers who went
to the Orient in search of precious stones. On his voyages he saw and
described many stones that have since been lost to history. They may have
been recut, by illegitimate owners, into smaller stones, or they may be
resting in some hidden treasure store.
_The Florentine_
Among these lost stones is the Florentine, a clear yellow diamond of 137
carats, which Tavernier saw among the treasures of the Duke of Tuscany in
1657. Legends say that Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was wearing
the stone in 1476, when he fell in battle. Picked up by a peasant as
an attractive pebble, the stone was sold for a florin; after various
adventures it fell into the hands of the Medici. Later, when the Grand
Duke of Tuscany married Maria Theresa of Austria, the Florentine became
part of the Austrian crown jewels. It went into exile, after World War I,
with the imperial family, and half a hundred rumors since have set it in
as many hands.
_The Great Mogul_
Tavernier was probably the only European who ever saw the Great Mogul.
It was shown him by Aurangzeb, sixth Mogul Emperor of Hindustani, who
had usurped the throne in 1658 and imprisoned his father, the great
Shah Jehan. Tavernier said it weighed 280 carats and resembled half an
egg sliced through the middle. He was told it had weighed 787 carats in
the rough, but had been so badly cut that the jeweler, instead of being
paid, had forfeited all his fortune. (Such were the risks conscientious
jewelers ran!) When the Persians sacked Delhi in 1739, the Great Mogul
may have been among their loot. It probably still adorns a beauty in
Iran—unless it turned up in the western world as the Orloff Diamond.
_The Orloff_
Similar in shape to the Great Mogul but weighing (one can hardly say
“only”) 199 carats, the Orloff was among the more than 2,500 diamonds
owned by Catherine the Great, ruler of all the Russias. One story says
the gem was stolen by a French grenadier from the eye socket of a Hindu
idol and hidden in a self-inflicted leg wound. Such accounts recur in
tales of many jewels. Another story says that it is one of the stones
resulting from the cleavage of the great rough diamond that also produced
the Kohinoor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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