Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
At any rate, it was purchased in Holland in 1774 by the Russian
Count Gregory Orloff for 400,000 rubles ($450,000). The Count had
been a favorite of Catherine’s; she had made him a prince and the
commander-in-chief of her armies. The Court did not mind—or could not
help—the number of Catherine’s lovers; but she seemed on the verge of
actually marrying the Count. Her entourage therefore set their wits to
work, and Orloff fell from favor. For Catherine’s name day, when others
at Court presented the customary bouquets, Orloff gave her the diamond.
His family’s fortune had been pledged for it, but it failed to re-open
Catherine’s arms to him. She never wore the diamond but had it mounted in
her sceptre, right under the double eagle. Under that symbol of imperial
power, it presumably rests in the Kremlin today. A more prosaic version
of the Count’s enterprise states that he assured himself of heart balm by
selling the diamond to Catherine for £90,000 plus a £4,000 life annuity.
_The Shah of Persia_
Another diamond reported by Tavernier and now reposing in the Kremlin
is an 88-carat bar-shaped stone of finest quality. It has a tiny furrow
cut in it, presumably to secure the cord by which Tavernier, in 1665,
saw it suspended in front of the Mogul throne. It also has engraved on
it three names and dates. The first name is that of an Indian prince,
Bourhan-Nizam Shah II; the date, the year 1000 in the Mohammedan count,
the western 1591. The second engraving, in the western year 1651, sets
this gem as another among the treasures of the great Mogul Shah Jehan.
The third date is western 1824; the owner, the Shah of Persia.
The Persians possessed the jewel until 1889, when a Teheran mob slew the
Russian ambassador, the thirty-four-year-old playwright Griboyedov. As a
sign of their regret, the Persian royal house sent the Shah Diamond to
Russia, where it has remained.
_The Great Table_
Another stone that Tavernier was the only European to look upon is the
Great Table Diamond, sometimes called the White Tavernier. This 242-carat
stone is described by the French traveler: “When at Golconda in 1642, I
was shown this stone, and it is the largest diamond I have ever seen in
India in the hands of merchants. The owner allowed me to make a model of
it in lead, which I sent to Surat to two of my friends, telling them of
its beauty and the price, namely, 500,000 rupees. I received an order
from them, that if it was clean and of fine water, I should offer 400,000
rupees; but it was impossible to purchase it at that price.” The asking
price was about $280,000, for want of which the Great Table has totally
disappeared.
The table cut—which was virtually discontinued after 1520, when the rose
cut grew popular—sliced the gem into a flat slab, sometimes so thin that
the diamond was used as a “portrait stone,” set over a miniature painting.
_The Blue Tavernier_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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