Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
One diamond that Tavernier brought back from his travels was a blue
diamond, roughly heart-shaped, of 112 carats. He sold it in 1668 to Louis
XIV of France. It was recut as a slightly pointed drop, being reduced in
the process to 68 carats. Louis XV set the diamond in his Order of the
Golden Fleece. It was also worn by Louis XVI but was among the treasures
of the royal house that disappeared at the beginning of the French
Revolution in the great crown jewel robbery. Of these, only the Regent
and the Sancy were recovered.
The fate of the Blue Tavernier is in doubt. One story runs that the
insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece were smuggled to England,
where later this diamond was recut. A one-carat blue diamond, last heard
of in London, is supposed to have come from the tip. A second stone is a
blue drop diamond that came into the possession of the Duke of Brunswick.
The third and largest cut is the Hope Diamond.
_The Hope_
Without any guarantee of this past history, Henry Thomas Hope in 1836
bought a superb blue diamond of 44 carats. Blue diamonds are exceedingly
rare; the nearest in weight to the Hope Diamond are the Brunswick
diamond, mentioned just above, of almost 14 carats, and a 35-carat stone,
the Wittlesbach, exhibited in London in 1930.
The Hope Diamond was willed by Lady Hope, in 1887, to her daughter’s son
on condition that he adopt the family name. He became Lord Francis Pelham
Clinton Hope. In 1894 he married the American actress May Yohe who wore
the diamond when she sang in the music halls. It is said to have been
part of the “stage jewelry” listed among her belongings when her trunks
were held for a lodging debt, but it was returned to the Hope family.
In 1908 the gem was bought for $400,000 by Abdul Hamid, Sultan of Turkey.
With the breath of revolution on his neck, the Sultan three years later
sent it to Paris to be sold. It became part of the famed collection of
Mrs. Edward B. McLean, whose gems dazzled Washington, D. C., for almost
forty years. After her death, it was bought in 1949 by Harry Winston,
noted diamond merchant of New York.
_The Jehan Akbar Shah_
This diamond deserves distinction as the second great eye of the Peacock
Throne of the Mogul Emperors. It was engraved with the names of Shah
Akbar and his grandson, Shah Jehan. It weighed 116 carats. After Shah
Jehan was deposed by his son in 1666, the stone disappeared. Precisely
two hundred years later it was shown in Constantinople as the Shepherd
stone. Recognized by the inscriptions, the diamond was bought by an
English merchant. In London, it was recut to 71 carats, losing the
inscriptions and sold to the Gaekwar of Baroda.
_The Cullinan_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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