Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
The seventeenth century in Europe, in the field of jewels, was one of
timid venturing. The Portuguese came to the fore with delicate work,
golden sprays of leaves and flowers with tiny gems, ribbons and knots
of gold. In France the _sévigné_ appeared, a simple golden bow or
rosette worn on the breast, named after the Marquise de Sévigné, a noted
blue-stocking and one of the greatest letter writers of her day. The
sévigné, at first rather plain, was elaborated during the eighteenth
century into a massive brooch, or even a gemmed stomacher. The aigrette
also appeared at this time, in the form of feather-like thin movable
stalks of gold tipped with tiny gems set in enamel; these vibrated as the
wearer moved.
_The Eighteenth Century_
In the eighteenth century greater attention was again paid to adornment.
The aigrette became more popular, used mainly as an ornament for the
hair. Thin silver stalks like stems of wheat were banded just below the
center, with a slide for fastening; the tips were set with diamonds.
Some pins for the hair and some brooches were fashioned with birds or
butterflies, again on thin stalks so that they flitted as the wearer
walked. This vibration of the aigrette added to the sparkle of the gems.
I have made a variation of this jewel, as a flower, to fit the taste of
the twentieth century.
A new type of pendant earring was the girandole. This appeared in two
main forms. In one, from a large circular stone at the ear lobe hung
three pear-shaped pendants, sometimes amethysts or other colored stones,
but usually diamonds. In the other type, from the top stone was suspended
an oval hoop of gold, within which a single large diamond hung loose.
More and more as the nineteenth century came near, the fashion in
precious stones demanded diamonds. If not in the center of a jewel, they
were used to set off the main one. They were worn in the new marquise
ring, the gold of which was fashioned to hold a large oblong stone
surrounded by diamonds. They were an essential element of the parure, the
set of matching jewels, which developed in this century in France. Thus
milady might have, in a parure, a bracelet, necklace, earrings, aigrette,
and sévigné, all ordered together and made of the same metals and
precious stones, patterned for their respective purposes in a concordant,
harmonizing whole.
_On the Romantics_
For a time, under the influence of the rococo style, and the Gothic
tendency in the other arts, it looked as though jewelry designs, becoming
more and more elaborate and extravagant, might again approach the
eccentric and achieve the inept. In 1755, however, the ruins of Pompeii
were unearthed, with their treasures of antique style, and a classical
simplicity became the order of the day, fostered for a time by the
“return to nature” of the Romantics. It was felt, for instance, that
the diamond, now prized beyond all other precious stones, shone most
effulgent when it stood alone in a simple setting.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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