Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
True diamonds were known in Asia at least as far back as 900 B.C. India
was the homeland of the gem for many years. The best stones in the
sixteenth century were those cut in Hyderabad, India, in the famed city
of Golconda. Rich findings were made about 1720 in Brazil; in Borneo in
1738; elsewhere, diamonds were discovered in less significant amounts.
But by far the richest hoards were unearthed in 1867 in South Africa,
which is still the world’s greatest source of diamonds.
Although the lozenge is the characteristic shape of its crystal surface,
the rough diamond stone is found in many shapes and cut into great
variety. Because of the tears that the great tragic actress Sarah
Bernhardt wrung from the audiences at his melodramas, Victor Hugo
presented her with a tear-shaped diamond.
Among the many literary references to the diamond, the Elizabethan
playwrights were particularly fond of the expression “diamond cut
diamond”, meaning in that aristocratic age, when great man matched with
great. In the more democratic nineteenth century, particularly with
regard to those most democratic of spirits, the pioneers—such as the
Americans opening up the West—it became popular to speak of an uncouth,
unpolished but fundamentally fine fellow as “a diamond in the rough.”
Lovers at all times have linked this most brilliant of stones with their
fair one’s sparkling eyes. One said that, wherever he went in the world,
he found only his beloved:
If to far India’s coast we sail,
Thy eyes are seen as diamonds bright,
Thy breath is Amric’s spicy gale,
Thy skin is ivory’s soft white.
There are several sayings which, though they refer to the diamond, by
indirection speak of mankind. Thus there is a warning to the person who
is heedless of dress or decor, or of the furnishing of office or home, in
the remark: “A fine diamond may be ill set.” There is, on the other hand,
a challenge to pretense, or perhaps a warning to a person about to select
an employee—or a mate—in the Chinese proverb: “A diamond with a flaw is
better than a perfect pebble.”
_Ruby_
The ruby is a variety of corundum. The Sanskrit word _kuruvinda_ was
limited to the ruby, but we today use the word corundum to mean any form
of aluminum oxide, chemically Al₂O₃. Corundum is next in hardness (though
far inferior) to the diamond, and a hard granular form of it is used in
grinding and polishing. In its pure, transparent form it is, according to
its color, the ruby, the sapphire, the Oriental amethyst, or the Oriental
topaz.
The Latin word _ruber_ means red, and the crystalline corundum that is a
ruby takes shades from pale rose-pink to a deep crimson that borders on
the purple. The color is determined by the nature of the oxide, and the
gem sometimes has a light silken sheen. A flawless deep red ruby is one
of the rarest and most costly of gems.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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