Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Physically, the sapphire was thought to effect various cures. The
scientist von Helmhont praised its power for patients afflicted with
boils. Some thought the sapphire, for ills of the eye, even better than
the emerald. Thus Charles V of France had a sapphire set in gold, to
which he had a handle attached, like a lorgnette, to hold to his inflamed
and painful eyes. Queen Elizabeth I of England attributed more general
magical powers to a sapphire that she wore and with which she never
parted until her death. With it, she foiled countless plots against her
life and in England’s most turbulent times lived out her full allotment
of three score years and ten.
For the September-born, there is the exultation of the rustle of fall and
the sweep of white clouds across a sapphire heaven.
Harvest moon beyond the hill.
Harvest happiness, and still
Watch the hearth’s soft-dying ember.
Deep the night with many stars,
Love’s the locksmith breaks all bars.
Sapphire’s for September.
_October: Opal_
Fresh October brings the pheasant;
Then to gather nuts is pleasant.
But this month’s babe is born for woe
And life’s vicissitudes will know
Unless an opal on her breast
Drives off these woes and keeps her blessed.
October, with its sharp contrasts, is the month of the opal. This gem may
be white, or black, or of that rare and precious kind, the fire opal. In
its dark greyish background are imbedded the most luminous colors of red,
yellow, green, blue, and purple, that seem to shoot forth rays. The opal
does not refract light, being an opaque stone; but its own colors make
fine interplay with light.
The Roman historian Pliny called the opal “the captive rainbow.” The
wearer of the stone, the same authority assures us, not only will be
urbane and courteous but will be free from the spleen of those around. An
opal, like a soft answer, turneth away wrath.
For a while, especially in the early nineteenth century, the opal was
considered a stone of bad luck; it fell from favor like one dismissed by
royalty. Two stories, one from life and one in legend, helped produce
this aberration; human credulity completed the work.
The true-life story is that of Alphonso XII of Spain. He gave a ring,
bearing a magnificent opal, to his bride. Shortly after, she succumbed to
a mysterious malady. His sister, who next wore the ring, died a few days
later. His sister-in-law next put the precious opal on her finger; within
the month she died. Hoping to end the series of sudden deaths, Alphonso
took back the ring and gave it to no one. Alphonso died. The chain was
broken when his heirs placed the ring upon a statue of the Virgin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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