Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Since the turquoise is comparatively soft among stones, it can be readily
engraved; magic inscriptions, charms, and prayers have been cut upon
it, to add their power to its auspicious glow. The turquoise is thus
a protective stone. December being a precipitous month, when snow and
ice are prelude to a fall, with hillsides hazardous and even a level
walk a place where one is prone to slip, the turquoise is an excellent
talisman against falling. In fact, the saddles of horses have been set
with turquoise, to keep the steed surefooted on journey or in battle. St.
George was secure against a fall in his battle with the dragon; paintings
and tapestries of the valiant saint show a turquoise in the hilt of his
great sword.
Opaque though it is, the turquoise, because of its bright coloring,
outshines most other stones. Its protective value may extend even to
material things. It was the Hindu Tagore who arose from his pondering
of less mundane concerns to report that, to ensure enormous wealth, one
should look long at the new moon, then instantly fix one’s eyes on a
turquoise.
[Illustration: 15. QUEEN ELIZABETH II. _Her Majesty is wearing the sash
and star of the Order of the Garter, a necklace given to her by the
Nizam of Hyderabad and a diamond bracelet which was a gift from the Duke
of Edinburgh. Her tiara of diamonds and pearls has been worn by queens
of England since Queen Victoria. (Command portrait by Dorothy Wilding,
courtesy of the British Information Services)_]
[Illustration: 16. PEARL AND BAGUETTE DIAMOND EARCLIPS. _Designed to
minimize large ears. The subdued sparkle of the baguette diamonds makes
them suitable for both daytime and evening. This jewel was honored with
the Diamond U.S.A. Award._]
[Illustration: 17. DEEP SEA ALGAE. _The earclips (only one is shown at
the left) and pin (shown here ⅞ of actual size) of chased 18 karat gold
with ornaments of large diamonds were inspired by deep-sea plants. Their
distinctive character is heightened when seen against a solid color._]
[Illustration: 18, 18A. DOUBLE ROSE CLIP. _Two wild roses with their
foliage form a brilliant corsage of diamonds and platinum. The two
flowers are different in size and detail of design. The pin can be
separated into two individual clips, providing a variety of possibilities
for enhancing adornment. At the left, the smaller of the blossoms—the
flower not yet fully opened, the leaves still curled in—is worn on a
necklace of round and baguette diamonds._]
[Illustration: 19. DIAMOND AND PEARL LEAVES. _A set of brooch and
earclips suitable for almost all occasions. The delicate, pierced design,
signifying the veins of a leaf, has both airiness and depth. When the
earclips, similar in shape to the pin, are worn close to the cheek, the
pearls add lustre to the skin._]
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