Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
[Illustration: 45. GOLD SHELL FOR INFORMAL WEAR. _This three-dimensional
jewel of 18 karat gold is hand engraved in Florentine finish. The turned
over edge is paved with diamonds._]
[Illustration: 46. FLOWER LAPEL BROOCH. _Long stemmed flowers of
emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds in a bowl of 18 karat gold. A
delightful ornament for a bag, a hat or a scarf._]
[Illustration: 47. MRS. TEX MC CRARY. _A poinsettia of diamonds without
visible support is worn by Jinx Falkenburg. As a whimsical touch, she
adds a diamond and emerald bell on her forehead. The design of her
flower-like earclips emphasizes the perfect oval of her face._]
When a corsage of flowers takes attention at the heart of the dress, the
versatile clip may be transferred to the evening bag or worn at the cuff
of a sleeve. It may be used in ways beyond number, limited only by the
wearer’s chosen garments and tasteful imagination.
_Its Personality_
Since there is such freedom of choice in placing the clip, its position
is largely determined by the wearer’s personality. In the choice of the
clip itself, as I shall indicate shortly, there are only a few guiding
principles, and these are of a general nature. As a consequence, a clip
is a sort of identification badge. It says, not This is my name, but This
is my style. It should be chosen carefully with full regard to the fact
that the clip is the wearer’s personality on parade.
_The Change in the Brooch_
Until about 1920, while the brooch was mainly a clasp for the collar or
a fastener for the dress, the favorite form was a bar pin. This might be
of gold in various simple motifs, such as the bowknot; or it might be of
precious stones or pearls. Other popular designs were the crescent-moon
brooch, the circle brooch, the heart pin, and the four-leaf clover.
At that time, there was likely to be but one dark party dress in the
wardrobe, and the laces and frills of the colorful gowns were beautiful
and sufficient adornments in themselves. Times have changed, and in most
closets cocktail and party dresses have multiplied. They have also grown
streamlined and simpler so that clips, with earclips and necklace, may be
added to give softness as well as variety to the outfit.
Whatever the dress—unless it passes the limits into eccentricity—the part
of a woman’s outfit that attracts the most attention is her jewelry.
However stunning the dress, however striking the bag, however happy the
hat, eyes will return to and be held by the jewels—especially the jewel
displayed upon the dress. And the “little black dress” created by Mme.
Chanel is still the best background for a beautiful jewel. The simpler
the dress, the more will the beauty of the clip be artfully displayed.
_The Old Double Clip_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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