Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
With the expansion of the brooch into the clip came a greater variety
of patterns. However, the bowknot continued popular, along with the
fleur-de-lis and other flower designs. Many of these are still being
used, with newly designed settings incorporating baguette diamonds and
variously shaped stones. In the 1920’s there was a wide vogue of a flat,
geometrical double clip. The two parts were symmetrical, so that their
balance today seems obvious and without art.
It is interesting to reflect at this point that many older patterns,
motifs, designs, still seem beautiful in our eyes. There is a charm in
many of the Victorian jewels, a lasting beauty in the baroque. In the
generation just before us, however, sculpture, architecture, interior
decorating, jewelry, all seem to have suffered from a lapse of artistry
and taste. Is this another sign of the eternal rebellion of the children
against the parents? Must every past style seem antic before it becomes
antique? In any event, the old two-part double clip should either be
left in the treasure chest for another fifty years or taken to the
jeweler to be remodelled.
_The New Double Clip_
The possibilities of the double clip, however, are too great to be
abandoned. The flat symmetrical two-part clip has been supplanted by a
more dynamic, three-dimensional variety which when used as a unit gives
no indication that it is a double clip. The two separate clips are so
made that they intricately but intimately conjoin into one unit, a
striking jewel.
Separated, the two clips become two different jewels, of different sizes
and possibly even different designs, though of course harmonious. Each
remains a sculptured piece; that is, it has a three-dimensional quality.
The two may be worn on different occasions. The smaller might well become
a suit, the larger adorn a dress. Or the two, used at the same time
but not fused, might make attractive parts of a parure on more formal
occasions. On a square neckline, the two different clips may be so used
as to create a different yet balanced charm. Or one may give a fresh
touch to the hat, or grace the bag, while the other is worn on the dress.
By repeating a design in two sizes, or presenting two harmonious motifs,
the double clip increases the potentialities of the jewel for variety in
beauty, while as a unit it creates a striking effect of individuality and
power.
_The Abstract Design_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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