Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Among the frequently displayed flowers is the open-petaled pansy, which
our grandmothers wore in various colors of enamel, but which is now
patterned in stones. Also to be seen is the tiny forget-me-not. The lily
of the valley rises on its delicate stem. The water lily seems almost
still afloat. Carnations and asters more boldly flaunt their patterns.
The daisy, that earlier was often fashioned with white enamel petals and
a central stone, may now be suggested wholly by baguette diamonds.
More elaborate flowers and flower clusters were once frequent, building
into nosegays of gems. Perhaps the most spectacular of these is the
famous Flower Jewel bestowed by the Herzog von Lothringen upon his wife,
Empress Maria Theresa of Austria. Now to be seen in the Museum of Natural
History in Vienna, this historic piece is both a fine example of the
jeweler’s art and a demonstration for the science of gemology: among
its thousands of carats of gems—diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires,
pearls—may be counted every existing variety of precious and semiprecious
stones.
_Current Varieties_
A flower is to jewelers as a landscape is to painters; each may look
upon the same prospect and produce a different work. Some may fashion
a comparatively naturalistic blossom, or a clip of several flowers of
different sizes. For these, colored stones will reproduce the color of
the flower. Others may work in a more stylized fashion, merely suggesting
the flower shape or framing it into a formal pattern, as in the
decorations of ancient columns and walls. Some of these, indeed, approach
the manner of the abstract design.
Where the flower is suggested rather than caught in its own colors,
diamonds in fancy cut may be used for the petals with the leaves
fashioned of baguettes. The center may be a blue-white diamond, a colored
stone, or—most strikingly—a black pearl. Some such flowers have been made
with a central stone that is removable, so that various gems of different
color may produce startlingly different effects with the same basic
floral jewel. From the surrounding petals and leaves of diamonds, it is
surprising how varyingly new center stones can shine.
_The Rose_
The most outstanding of all flower motifs, both in number and in variety
of presentation, is the queen of flowers, the rose. As it ranges far
beyond all other flowers in colors and species, so it lends itself to
a multiplicity of treatments in jewels. Roses have been made all of
diamonds, white or colored; they have been shaped of rubies, of coral,
of ivory and of all the precious metals. Notable is a rose clip in which
the diamond blossom rises from leaves of baguettes. For simpler costumes,
the leaves can be removed and the flower used alone to adorn a neckline
or accentuate the lapel of a suit. Together, the leaves and the flower
present a corsage that challenges and outlasts any beauty the florist can
supply.
_The Skinpin_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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