Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornmentOstier, Marianne
History
Jewels and the woman: The romance, magic and art of feminine adornment
Ostier, Marianne
Jewelry
Today, in brooches and clips, two basic patterns are in favor: the
ornamental, abstract design, and the flower motif. The woman who likes
tailored jewelry will inevitably be drawn to the more geometrical
designs. While these may at times be shapes of deep yellow or varicolored
gold, they will usually be achieved with the aid of shimmering bands of
baguette diamonds, contrasted with round diamonds and colored stones.
Without regard to the loss of weight from uncut stone, jewelers are now
shaping diamonds in many fancy cuts—which only the most flawless gems can
sustain—for the sake of the pattern of the entire jewel.
The potentialities of the abstract design are far from being exhausted,
and a jeweler who is a genuine artist has here a fertile field. If a
woman has selected a jeweler as carefully as she has chosen her coiffeur,
and finding him good has continued to seek his counsel, he should be able
to suggest or to create a clip that will both express and illuminate her
personality.
Several general designs lend themselves to personal variations. Among
these, I recommend a clip with baguette tassels from which pear-shaped
diamonds are suspended. There are also attractive tailored-looking pins
of a feather design, which, in gold or platinum, are effective on many
occasions. Various loops and bows can be ingeniously intertwined. Among
completely abstract clip designs are some like lacy seaweeds. Others will
suggest themselves and may be fashioned to suit every occasion and taste.
_The Flower Design_
Less novel than the abstract designs but perhaps more lasting in its
effect of peaceful beauty is the flower clip. Since the development of
photography, few artists have tried to make exact copies of nature.
Those who wish to see exact reproductions of flowers in glass may go to
the Harvard Museum in Cambridge. The artist in jewelry seeks to suggest
the essence of the flower, its shape, its color, the softness of its
petals. (An astute woman may select her perfume to suggest the flower’s
fragrance.) Today even such hard metals as platinum or palladium may be
so handled as to convey the delicacy of the bloom.
_Earlier Flowers_
The flower motif, in ring or brooch or other adornment, has been a
favorite in many periods. Some of the designs have persisted; others have
grown simpler or more elaborate according to the vogue. But in the past
few centuries, there have been few jewelers who have not had in work or
on display some flower brooches or clips of precious stones.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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